Help to make rigging up my XD quicker and easier please

[Buoy10]

Hi I'm quite new to the Laser rig having re-entered into dinghy sailing via a Topper. I'm finding that the ease of an old rig would suit me but I'm loving the XD extra purchase.

I'm looking to secure the out haul pulley and downhaul pulley permanently in position with a webbing strop like those used on a Topper? I simply can't get my head around loose ropes falling off the ends of the unstepped mast sections plus continually re-stepping the mast because the out haul or downhaul or mast retainer ended up on the wrong side! (getting in a pickle basically!)

To anyone that might say 'simply' untie the knot and re-tie, I avoid knots at all costs! I know, I'm a big girl and should remember, and I perfect it, then I forget! I'm also looking to replace the knot on the boom with a shackle or some such thing?

I'm looking for speed to rig and ease over and above performance (fun sailing only) but want to retain my XD kit and adapt where possible.

Any ideas on securing the loops on the mast or sourcing a webbing strop large enough would be very appreciated.

 

[Duncan_vdH]

The loop for my outhaul has been secured to the mast using self-vulcanizing tape. You simply stretch the tape while winding it over the rope (as in making loops around the mast) and it adheres to itself, but not to anything else. It will not leave any residue.
When I was in the showroom to take a look at a new Laser, the loops were attached in exactly the same way.

 

[Buoy10]

Thank you Duncan, I shall Google Self-Vulcanising tape immediately - sounds perfect!

 

[LaLi]

I'm finding that the ease of an old rig would suit me but I'm loving the XD extra purchase.

I don't find the "old" rig much "easier" in any way. Also, you can have exactly as much purchase with the old cleating systems as the new. It's not an either/or thing.

I'm looking to secure the out haul pulley and downhaul pulley permanently in position with a webbing strop like those used on a Topper?

Not allowed. Shackles, balls, clips, hooks and/or tie lines, but no webbing.

I'm also looking to replace the knot on the boom with a shackle or some such thing?

Which knot are you talking about?

I can't totally visualize all your rigging problems, but for the outhaul turning blocks at the gooseneck I can recommend shackling or bolting them to the gooseneck fitting. No ropes or tape needed. If the holes in the fitting are below the boom pin, then use a small twisted shackle to attach the block that turns the line towards the deck. If the fitting is mounted the other way, you can bolt a small cheek block (one that has a mounting hole through its axis) to it. If you use a second block there, attach it with a straight shackle to the other hole.

 

[Buoy10]

Not allowed. Shackles, balls, clips, hooks and/or tie lines, but no webbing.

That's very interesting, I shall try to stick within the class rules as my Son may sail this some day and I will do some club level racing in the mean time so thank you for that.

Which knot are you talking about?

In essence it's anything preventing me from detaching the boom from the mast. We have a long haul up the beach back to the SC and I would like to be able to step the mast, remove battens and roll the sail to prevent extra flapping and wear (and instability)

I can't totally visualize all your rigging problems, but for the outhaul turning blocks at the gooseneck I can recommend shackling or bolting them to the gooseneck fitting. No ropes or tape needed. If the holes in the fitting are below the boom pin, then use a small twisted shackle to attach the block that turns the line towards the deck. If the fitting is mounted the other way, you can bolt a small cheek block (one that has a mounting hole through its axis) to it. If you use a second block there, attach it with a straight shackle to the other hole.

Off to the chandlers I go! This actually helps greatly as it's much easier to use your specific terminology than descriptions at the Chandlers.

I have a photo that I have been modelling my Laser upon kindly guided by a very keen and knowledgeable Laser sailor but now 100's miles away) and also a photo of my actual rig. (I subsequently find these too large to upload so will reduce the definition and upload separately) As I don't have the downhaul pulley fitted (slipped off and lost hence my frustration!) I fitted it on this occasion statically and will obtain another pulley and tie line.

I'm really grateful, thank you.

 

[Buoy10]

This is the set up I am trying to model mine upon except as mentioned I want to secure the tie lines to the mast

 

[Buoy10]

I'll take a lower definition shot of mine later/tomorrow and upload. Thanks again for your help

 

[LaLi]

Just commenting on the picture above (post 6).

You can see the hole in the gooseneck fitting just in front of the blue cunningham line. That's where you can attach the outhaul turning block with a twisted shackle. On this boat, the purchase on the outhaul system is located farther aft on the boom, so just opening that one shackle would be all to undo the system from the mast. (There are actually two holes, in this case it would be attached to the port one.)

The cunningham block on the mast: there are many other ways of doing it. For instance, I have it attached to the pin on the vang cleating fitting (where this boat has the primary cunningham line attached with a hook). Or you can tie it to the vang tang. Lots of choices, none of which require tape.

(Other observations: you can't tie the vang tail to the centreboard elastic. Also, there's no mast retainer rigged; the strange grey line around the mast surely isn't it. Also, I personally dislike braided loop handles on the control lines - they're really just a relic from the pre-2001 rules.)

 

[Duncan_vdH]

(Other observations: you can't tie the vang tail to the centreboard elastic. Also, there's no mast retainer rigged; the strange grey line around the mast surely isn't it. Also, I personally dislike braided loop handles on the control lines - they're really just a relic from the pre-2001 rules.)

I was wondering why you cannot tie the tail of the vang to the centerboard elastic? If I remember correctly this
is advised in either the Goodison or the Davison book as a way to ensure that it is always within reach.

And what would you recommend to the instead of braiding the tails? My vang has a handle with a piece of plastic hose.

 

[LaLi]

I was wondering why you cannot tie the tail of the vang to the centerboard elastic?

Class rule 3(b)x: The free ends of different control lines (except mainsheet) may be tied together and/or tied to any deck fitting or the centreboard, the centreboard handle or a rope loop used to attach a retaining line. Free ends of control lines shall not be tied to shock cord (except mainsheet).

If I remember correctly this is advised in either the Goodison or the Davison book as a way to ensure that it is always within reach.

They most likely mean the legal parts of that rule.

And what would you recommend to the instead of braiding the tails? My vang has a handle with a piece of plastic hose.

Well, you just answered your own question In general, I think if you really need a handle anywhere, then that system doesn't have enough purchase. In the Laser, the traveller is the only clear example of that. Then again, one might prefer less purchase for a good reason (simplicity, shorter rope tails) and add a handle to compensate. It's a compromise.

 

[Duncan_vdH]

It is actually from Tim Davison's "The Laser Handbook" and is complemented with two pictures:
"Tie the end of the kicking strap around the centreboard elastic so the rope can slide. (Put a knot in the end of the rope, then make a half hitch around the elastic.) This makes sure you can always get hold of the kicking strap."

Not tied to, but looped around? I do not know if I am allowed to post a picture taken from the book....

 

[LaLi]

Duncan, that's definitely "tied" to the elastic, and definitely illegal. It makes no sense that it should slide, either.

 

[Buoy10]

Well here is the 'after' shot (so far), your recommendation for a twisted shackle is perfect.

I have also attached the tie line for the downhaul onto the kicker assembly with a straight shackle so both tie lines cannot slip off.

If you see any observations from my rig (other side being uploaded next) please do feel free to comment.

At present two of the three spars are laid down still connected (I didn't disconnect the twisted shackle) which will hamper stepping of the mast - do you as a practice disconnect everything every time?

Again, many thanks I am so glad I asked!

 

[Buoy10]

Close up, other side

 

[Deimos]

...We have a long haul up the beach back to the SC and I would like to be able to step the mast, remove battens and roll the sail to prevent extra flapping and wear (and instability)....

Rigging: Join mast sections; sail on mast, battens in, (wind indicator in top?) and lay mast on boat and wheel to launch point. At waters edge step mast, etc. I use quickpins to attach kicker and Cunningham (e.g. Deluxe Quick Pin 1/4 x .75 - probably not the correct size, just showing the principle.). I also use the stainless clew outhaul thingy with hook

(picture from Clew Sleeve Releases under sail | Page 2 | SailingForums.com)

On getting ashore untie everything holding the mast on, un-step mast and lay it on the boat (takes a few seconds or at least is very quick), then move the boat where you want.

I always lay the mast on top of the sail on the boat so it (the sail) does not blow around.

It is all very quick and easy and you get used to it pretty quickly.

 

[Buoy10]

Thanks Deimos

 

[LaLi]

Looks nice. I don't totally understand the shackles in the cunningham system, though. The shackle around the vang tang sure keeps the block tie line from falling down when slack, but wouldn't it be even simpler to run one loop of the line above the tang? The shackle for the primary cunningham line at the top of the vang cleating fitting seems also redundant. I think it's illegal, too - it doesn't make much sense, but that's how I read the rules. (And it makes even less sense that it would be totally legal to have a shackle or hook at the other end of the same line, at the block!)

As the outhaul goes, I can recommend the Harken hook without the sleeve. Tie it to the boom with a piece of Dyneema, and you have a simple semi-permanent system which is nicer to operate than the sleeve. (I tried the sleeve once, and the hook snapped on my fingers every time I hooked the sail in or out of it. Maybe you get used to it, I don't know.)

do you as a practice disconnect everything every time?

Depends on what you include in "everything". Vang from the boom, clew from the boom (only the hook if that's how it's rigged), boom from the mast, outhaul from the mast (just the twisted shackle now), cunningham line from the deck fittings, mast retainer, mast from the hull. Only if you take the sail off the mast, then the cunningham line from the sail. Anything else?

 

[Deimos]

...(I tried the sleeve once, and the hook snapped on my fingers every time I hooked the sail in or out of it. Maybe you get used to it, I don't know.)...

Never had that problem. Also never had an issue with it detaching (sail detaching hook) - works well in my experience.