halyard questions

As a new Sunfish sailor, I have 2 (more :D ) questions:

1) How long should the halyard be? I just bought a boat from a lady who races, and her halyard was 32' long. My problem was that it was bright, hot pink--not the color I wanted to appear on the beach with! :eek: Anyway, after purchasing a more "neutral" color of the same length, I got to wondering if I bought more than needed. While sailing yesterday, it seemed like I had quite a bit extra--and that was even after fashioning a 2:1 purchase alongside the mast. I don't like extra line dangling around for no reason (never seems like a good idea on a windy day!)--so how long should it be? Might be related to my second question...

2) I read the SF tuning guide about creating a vang w/ the end of the halyard, but I don't quite understand how to do it. (BTW, I am familiar w/ vangs on other boats, but they were always a separate item.) Thus, I didn't use a vang yesterday, although I thought a time or two that it would have been useful. Can anyone describe in better detail or send a pic of a vang arrangement using the halyard? And would this really require the other 8 or so feet that I seemed to have left over yesterday??

Thanks!
Kevin
 
Down the mast, through the bullseye, cleat off on the deck cleat, back though the bullseye, over the gooseneck, through the bullseye a third time and back to the deck cleat. 1/4" or 5/16" halyard material will fit. 3/8" will not make the three passes through the bullseye.
If you add a mast cleat it becomes easier . Simply cleat off the halyard on the mast cleat, then through the bullseye, over the goosneck, back through the bullseye to the deck cleat.
The mast cleat offers the advantage of not being effected by the mast rotating during tack causing the halyard to strech and loosen and using a lot less cordage. also you can't make the mistake when trying to adjust the vang of loosening the main halyard. Done that by mistake, what a mess....LOL
 
P2,

24-25' is the "normal" length for a halyard and is plenty. 32' is a "racing" main sheet length. Many "racers use 3/16" or 1/4" no/low streack line, 5/16" is to large IMHO, I broke a "plastic" horned mast cleat using it. I have a mast cleat and rig like Mike suggests. Using 1/4" line, raise the sail and cleat to the mast, take the tail down to the deck, through the bullseye/pully (I go front to back), up around the gooseneck, again through the bullseye/pully and then cleat on the deck.
 
Why would the racing length be different from normal? What else would be done with the halyard when racing besides a vang?
 
Oops, sorry--just saw that 32' was the racing main sheet length, not halyard. OK, why would the main sheet be longer from racing?
 
With a knot in the end and using the hook on the front of the cockpit (otherwise known as a knee destroyer) the standard length mainsheet allows to sail/boom just perpendicular to the boat centerline. Longer mainsheets are used to allow the boom to go father foward so you can "sail by the lea" rather than gybing.
 
Vanguard lists the main sheet in 2 lengths, 25’ for the recreational version and 32’ for the “Pro” version. Racers are trying to get the best performance out of their SF and sail more often in more demanding conditions (both heavy and light winds) and the longer length is to their advantage as Mike mentions. Recreational sailors may go out in challenging winds for the thrill or just go cruising for fun in lighter winds and the longer length is not needed as often. Spend a few bucks more for a longer line and you will be glad you have it instead of wishing you had it.

The tail of the halyard can be used as a J.C. strap to help pull the sail out in light winds by tieing it to the tack end of the booms and the standard 24-5' length is still plenty.
 
Any one of you have a diagram on how to make that vang out of the extra halyard? I am brand spanking new to sunfish and I am a bit lost with some of this stuff. Thanks.

Robert
 
Robert,

Here you go. The diagrams have the instuctions on them (same as above), the pictures are what they diagrams illistrate. This is my '69 SF, so I have a pulley instead of a bullseye, but same result. Mike is correct, use 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16" line. With a pully, 1/4" is the max that will fit 3 times through. The illistrations below are a little different from what is shown in the SF Bible, but work just fine.
 

Attachments

  • Vang w-mast cleat sm.jpg
    Vang w-mast cleat sm.jpg
    32.9 KB · Views: 82
  • IMG_1430 sm.jpg
    IMG_1430 sm.jpg
    207.4 KB · Views: 90
  • Vang no cleat sm.jpg
    Vang no cleat sm.jpg
    33.1 KB · Views: 85
  • IMG_1435 sm.jpg
    IMG_1435 sm.jpg
    144.8 KB · Views: 87
Even if you're not going to race, you might as well keep within class legal measurements:

3.5.9 One cleat of any type may be installed on the mast not more than four (4’) feet from the base, for cleating the line used to tie the ‘Jens Rig’ (Ref. Rule 3.7.3). It may also be used to cleat the halyard. If utilized, there must be some means to securely attach the rig to the hull using the end of the halyard.

Search the forum for cleat recommendations. IIRC, there's a Hobie kit that fills the bill.

Best,
Kevin
 
Keep it under the 4' (about 47" to the top of the cleat) mark like Kevin and the rules say. I prefer a horned cleat over a clam cleat in this position. If you raise the sail on the trailer before you launch, the cleat may be out of reach for a short person standing on the ground. I am 5'10", my trailer has 12" wheels (vs 8') making it a little taller, and the cleat is just below eye level for me with my SF sitting on the trailer. On the beach or a dolly, it is much more convenient with less bending (until you secure it to the deck cleat).
 
I agree with Sup about the horn type cleat. A cam or clam type cleat doesn't work well if you need or want to put a vang on. The tension pulls the halyard out of the cleat.
I use the Hobie 16 mast cleat repair kit. it comes with the horned cleat, 1/4" pop rivets, and rivet waterproofing cups. I will say 1/4" pop rivets are a bear to "pop"
 
mike4947 said:
I agree with Sup about the horn type cleat. A cam or clam type cleat doesn't work well if you need or want to put a vang on. The tension pulls the halyard out of the cleat.
I use the Hobie 16 mast cleat repair kit. it comes with the horned cleat, 1/4" pop rivets, and rivet waterproofing cups. I will say 1/4" pop rivets are a bear to "pop"

You can also use stainless steel screws of the appropriate size and silicone to embed them.
 
Thanks, I put a horn cleat on w/ stainless steel screws. I'm planning to take my boat out in the morning, so I'll see how it works. Oh, I also plan to take my GPS along if it's a windy day (which the last few have been). I'm still wantin' to see what this baby will do...

Kevin
 
It's just the basic Garmin eTrex handheld unit, which sells on the web for around $80. Nothing too fancy, but it works well on the water. (it's supposed to be water resistant, but I keep it in a plastic baggy anyway--I'm pretty sure a dunking in salt water would ruin it!) On a windy day, it's fun to see what your consistent "current speed" is (not just the "max speed", which might be an anomoly). On my Prindle 18, I hit 19.8 mph (17.2 knots) once on a long reach. Gotta see what this SF will do in a real blow!
 
By way of follow-up, the wind wasn't as good today after all. (A front went through yesterday, and the main wind event associated w/ it had died down by this morning.) Anyway, 8 mph was the fastest I registered today, so my maximum SF speed test will have to wait. :(
 
My choice for dealing with the excess halard with the sail up is to run it through the bow handle, then around the mast, back through the bow handle, then secured with 2 half hitches midway along this stretch. It provides itself as a much larger "bow handle" with is handy when standing in waist deep water and manuvering the boat.
 
On the mast cleat height I put mine as high as the rules allow and was told by a good Sunfish sailor that was too high. He said that if I needed to adjust the halyard on the water, like putting in a jens rig on the water, it will be harder. Think about bigger waves and how high you can reach when adjusting the cleat without losing balance. I'm not sure what height is recommended. I've left my cleat where it is though.

Cindy
 

Back
Top