Furling Jib control line friction-How do you add deck hardware?

Discussion in 'Capri/Catalina 14 Talk' started by raduray, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. raduray

    raduray New Member

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    My recently purchased 14.2 has a furling jib. The furling line from the drum runs to a small cam cleat mounted next to the mast on top of the cuddy. This configuration causes the line to come into contact with the top of the drum (which is angled along the axis of the jib) resulting in friction when pulling the line to furl the jib.

    Harken's manual for small boat furling jibs recommends adding a fairlead at a position fairly close to the drum so that the line from the drum is perpendicular to the jib's luff. This fairlead is missing on my boat and I'd like to add one.

    I'm curious what others have done to address this. Specifically, I'd like to know how to attach the fairlead to the top of the cuddly (I have a Mod 2 and do not have access to the inside of the cuddy). I'm concerned that any screws drilled into the fiberglass would eventually pull out. How about stainless toggle bolts? How would I seal the holes afterwards?

    In some respects, this is a more generic question of how to attach deck hardware.

    Thanks,

    Radu
     
  2. raduray

    raduray New Member

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  3. raduray

    raduray New Member

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    So I figured out an inexpensive solution that does not require mounting new deck hardware. I got a 1/4" Stainless Steel Anchor Shackle from Home Depot for less than $4 and attached it to the rear hole of the stem fitting. Works great!

    [​IMG]
     
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  4. jdbeckerle

    jdbeckerle New Member

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    That looks like a great solution for the fairlead.

    My only complaint would be having to feed the furling line through the fairlead each time I rig the boat.
    This would be a problem with any fairlead I suppose.

    Is there such a thing as a "quick entry" fairlead? I am thinking of something that is two opposing hooks rather than a loop, with a gap in between. You would put the line in perpendicular to the axis in the gap between the hooks, and then slide each lead of the line under then end of the corresponding hook. This would capture the line and provide the required guidance, but be quick to rig and unrig. Of course it would not be nearly as strong as a continuous loop, but I expect it would be easy to make something strong enough for this.

    Another question:
    My mod 3 with roller furling jib does not have a cleat on the deck specifically for the furling line. Is there a preferred or standard location or type of cleat?
     
  5. raduray

    raduray New Member

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    As I live on a lake and the boat is parked at my dock, I only have to rig the boat once a year, in the spring. That being said, It's really no hassle to thread the furling line through the shackle. In the total scheme of rigging a boat, this is truly an insignificant task.

    Regarding the furling lead cleat, I have a small cam cleat with a fairlead mounted vertically on the side of the mast an inch or so from bottom of the mast.
     
  6. jdbeckerle

    jdbeckerle New Member

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    Thanks for responding. I agree it is no big effort to thread the furling line through the two fairleads (bow and camcleat). I do have to rig my boat every time I use it, so anything that saves steps is worth considering if it is easy to implement. From looking around online, I don't see anything like what I was describing available.

    Did you mount the cam cleat on the mast or did it come that way?
     
  7. raduray

    raduray New Member

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    I bought the boat used and it came this way. I'm attaching a picture.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. jdbeckerle

    jdbeckerle New Member

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    Thanks for the picture. I see the cam cleat is mounted a bit forward to avoid congestion with the large cleat. Thanks again!
     
  9. jdbeckerle

    jdbeckerle New Member

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    Hey Radu,
    Are you sure you used a 1/4" anchor shackle? I just bought a 1/4" anchor shackle at Lowes (which is close as opposed to Home Depot which is 20 minutes away) and it does not fit that rearmost hole in the stem fitting. Home Depot sells a different brand, but apparently also stocks a 3/16" anchor shackle.

    So, just to be sure:
    1) Did you drill out the hole to open it up for the anchor shackle? or
    2) Did you actually use a 3/16" anchor shackle? or
    3) Does Lowes just sell fat anchor shackles, and I will have to go to HD?
     
  10. jdbeckerle

    jdbeckerle New Member

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    Just a follow up.
    I purchased the Lehigh #7411 1/4" stainless steel Anchor Shackle from Home Depot, and the pin fits just fine through the rearmost hole in the stem fitting. So in answer to my own questions above: 1) no, 2) no, 3) yes.
     
  11. raduray

    raduray New Member

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    @jdbeckerie, sorry I didn't respond earlier. Just saw this. Glad you figured it out.
     

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