discovered an inexpensive ladder today and installed it!

Discussion in 'Capri/Catalina 14 Talk' started by Russ and Jennifer, Aug 9, 2015.

  1. Russ and Jennifer

    Russ and Jennifer Member

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    I happened on this ladder a week or so ago but didn't want to make any report on it until it was in my hands. I can now report that I'm very happy with it. nice heavy gauge and well polished stainless steel. just the right size to fit the 14.2. and priced right at only $34.00 + 10 for shipping cross country. it only took a few very minor modifications to mount it to the transom as well. I fit 2 ~2"x8"x3/4" oak to support the two halves of the transom where the 1 3/4" stainless bolts go through. access was gained in the usual way by installing an access hatch in the rear corner (more on that later in my resurrection thread), but is actually only needed for the one lower left bolt, which could easily be eliminated if desired. I re-drilled the mounting bracket on mine for better bolt placement, but other than that it really was a bolt on and go deal.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/221617321432?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

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    smooth winds,
    Russ
     
  2. Movingmen1

    Movingmen1 New Member

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    I purchased the same ladder and in the process of installing it. Would you be able to take a picture of the inside of the transom if you get a moment and post it. Thank you.
     
  3. Steve Rose

    Steve Rose Member

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    My wife has been asking me to install a boat entrance such as this. Please explain what you mean by "installing an access hatch in the rear corner". An inside photo would be helpful. Thanks.
     
  4. fhhuber

    fhhuber Member

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    Access hatches (also called inspection ports) are commonly installed in fiberglass boats to allow you to reach in and install backing plates.

    Seadog Watertight Inspection Or Access Port - iboats.com
    for some examples

    They are located to allow access to the inside of "sealed" hulls like the classic Sunfish or any boat that needs maintenence that can't be performed without cutting a hole in the fiberglass. They also allow ventilation for drying out a boat if water gets inside.
     
  5. Steve Rose

    Steve Rose Member

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    Thanks for the link to the access ports.

    For this ladder installation, do three screws go through the hull and into oak on the inside of the hull and the fourth screw go through just the first surface of the hull and into a washer/nut?
     
  6. Russ and Jennifer

    Russ and Jennifer Member

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    I actually drilled new holes in the ladder brackets to mount mine (now has three per side). it's perhaps a bit of overkill, but I am 220 lb so I wanted it strong ;) . the eye straps on the upper two mounting bolts on each side are used to attach a bungie that goes around the ladder when transporting to hold it in the "up" position as I didn't trust the velcro around the rungs to keep the ladder sections secured.
    Hope this helps.

    . P1030589.JPG P1030590.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2016
  7. Steve Rose

    Steve Rose Member

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    Thanks for the photos; that helps. Are the two oak boards that you mention inside the hull? Why would you want to swing and retain the ladder up, as you show it in the last photo? It seems that having the ladder telescoped, as shown in the first photo of this thread, would work well for all times when the ladder is not in use.
     
  8. Russ and Jennifer

    Russ and Jennifer Member

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    Yes, the oak boards are inside the 2 halves of the hull where the bolts go through. it's a bit irregular in there so you may need to do some fitting.
    I keep the ladder in the up position for transport on the trailer only, as I hate to gamble on the velcro strap around the rungs holding the ladder sections up off the roadway. if you didn't want to place it in the up position like I do you could always just put a safety rope around the rungs as a backup to the velcro when traveling I guess. [shrug]
     
  9. pat earing

    pat earing Can't we sail the Capri instead?

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    I did one last year and posted here; but, here are some photos. I chose to mount my deck plate on the vertical of the seat rather than on top-less likely to hurt and or leak... I used teak (because I had it laying around) as a spacer between the ladder and the transom. Inside I used a 3" x 4" block of maple for support. This has been used once for real and was very effective. My girls use it all the time as access to a diving platform-the boat-so it is solid and works great!

    Hope these help.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. tw30189

    tw30189 New Member

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    Hi, can you tell me more about that mast float I see in your picture? Did you make this or were you able to purchase that somewhere?

    Thanks

    Tim
     
  11. Steve Rose

    Steve Rose Member

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    Tim: I am not certain if your question was directed to me, possibly not. But, I will share with you what I did and it works great. There are pictures of how I interfaced a Hobie bob (baby size) with my mast without drilling any holes. De-masted in Mission Bay 2013 | Page 2 | SailingForums.com
     
  12. Russ and Jennifer

    Russ and Jennifer Member

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    That was a lobster float that I adapted, and it worked really well (tested and approved ;) ). Best part is it cost about $15.00 to make. I made a post about it at: Tightwad Bob - an affordable DIY mast float | SailingForums.com
     
  13. tw30189

    tw30189 New Member

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    Thanks Russ for your response and for pointing me to your post on how to make it - very creative!

    Tim
     
  14. tw30189

    tw30189 New Member

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    Thank you Steve,

    This is a good option to consider as well.
     

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