correct part # for bailer replacement

[PBA]

When replacing the bailer, am I am correct in stating that there are two models from which to choose from? One is to replace the "DePersia" brass bailers from the 1960's and early '70's, which had a longer plug stem, and the other is to replace those plastic bailers from the late '70's until the present, ones which had a much shorter plug stem? Is the gap from the underside of the well to the outer hull wider in those models with the old DePersia system than in those models that came later? I'm trying to get the correct bailer part number for replacing a DePersia brass bailer from a '72 fish.

Thanks in advance...

Link: http://tinyurl.com/r39odh

 

[Wayne]

When replacing the bailer, am I am correct in stating that there are two models from which to choose from?

I'm not sure why Torrensen Marine went to the trouble of giving the DePersia part nmber. The metal bailer has been obsolete as a replacement part since about 1974 and DePersia went out of business around 1980.

There's only been one bailer since, p/n 79260

This bailer fits all years of Sunfish.

 

[PBA]

Thanks Wayne. This is what got me - I knew I saw this somewhere. It's from Nightsailor's SCUD redo - any idea why he had to cut the plug on a new style plastic plug?

Link: http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?p=130703#post130703

See also: http://tinyurl.com/kp954u

 

[grahambo]

I had to cut mine when I installed it because it was simply to long, cutting it made it flush with the bottom of the boat.

 

[Wayne]

Thanks Wayne. This is what got me - I knew I saw this somewhere. It's from Nightsailor's SCUD redo - any idea why he had to cut the plug on a new style plastic plug?

I have not encountered this long plug portion. Possibilities I can think of...

• Dealers have found a generic PVC fitting and are substituting it (unlikely)
• The bailer fits several Laser Performance boats and rather than going to the expense of making different length plugs the decision has been made to let the user fit the plug to their model of boat (I'd expect length instructions to be included)
• The subcontractor put the wrong length plug in the bag with the Sunfish p/n and no one caught it. (In my business we use to call that letting the customer do the Quality Control)

I think it's been awfully polite of everybody not to bother either the dealer or LP with such trivia.

 

[PBA]

I emailed LaserPerformance, and finally got to the root of this thing. The space between the well floor and the outer hull was changed in 1972 when they added the extra 6-pack storage compartment. This also explains why NightSailor received such a long plastic bolt (which he eventually physically reduced in size) when he was working on his circa '70/71 boat - his model did not have the aft storage compartment.

So, if he ordered the right part, why did he have to end up cutting it? I guess the bottom line is that if you are working on a pre aft-compartment boat, make sure you order the extra "old style" bolt - and then send it back if you do not use it...

From Laserperformance: "The "new style" bailer should fit in any Sunfish while the "old style" only fits in the pre-72 boats. The spacing between the cockpit floor and the hull of boat changed when the cockpit was redesigned with the addition of the aft storage compartment."

 

[Wayne]

I emailed LaserPerformance, and finally got to the root of this thing. The space between the well floor and the outer hull was changed in 1972 when they added the extra 6-pack storage compartment. This also explains why NightSailor received such a long plastic bolt (which he eventually physically reduced in size) when he was working on his circa '70/71 boat - his model did not have the aft storage compartment.

So, if he ordered the right part, why did he have to end up cutting it?

That's a very good question. Everybody seems to be trimming parts regardless of their boat being older or newer. I'm not buying the explanation. Empirical evidence doesn't support the claim. The change from patches of resin to saturated pads is merely fractions of an inch. Somebody appears to be blowing smoke up somebody's hiking shorts.

Be this the case and everyone is now required to trim-to-fit, it’s disappointing there isn’t an explanation included with the part and a guide about where to cut for which year boat.

 

[Zeppo]

PBA, if you weren't so far away I'd send (give) you the bailer assembly that I just removed from my 07 Sunfish. Actually it's probably better to get a new one, mine is missing the float ball which escaped when one of the retaining pins got pushed up, the hex nut is partially gone and is now 5 sided (still works though). I found that I could bail much quicker using a modified bleach bottle. I removed the assembly because I felt it was adding nothing to the boats performance and spent most of it's work day looking for something to ram into or snag on.

 

[PBA]

I have the new assembly - it just came last week. I have a '72 with the aft compartment, so it should work. I also ordered an extra pre-aft compartment bolt, just as an insurance policy. I just finished the rudder conversion kit, and the OEM parts in the kit left much to be desired - so I'm not taking any chances. Only a couple of more weeks left in the season, so I may just wait until it's all over to change the systems out, rather than get stuck with the bailer totally removed, and incorrect parts to put in.

On the positive side, the new FRP and aluminum tiller/blade system is really nice, and was well thought out.

 

[Halfcentury]

Hello, I'm a Newbie that just purchased an old fish w/ a metal bailer that is heavily corroded. I am having great difficulty in removing it.

Any suggestions? From reading your thread, I am assuming the replacement plastic bailer will fit my boat.

 

[PBA]

There is additional stuff in the archives as well - just use the search button...

Link: http://www.windline.net/BailerR.htm

 

[Wayne]

Hello, I'm a Newbie that just purchased an old fish w/ a metal bailer that is heavily corroded. I am having great difficulty in removing it. Any suggestions?

A nice picture of removal surgery and a good running commentary on some techniques that worked well. . .
http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=29054&highlight=bailer

From reading your thread, I am assuming the replacement plastic bailer will fit my boat.

It's the only game in town.

The question is whether you'll need to do some custom fitting. The observation being, the plug fitting's threaded section is now nearly twice the length needed so must be trimmed back.

The oddity in it all is the report of the extra length being necessary for post '72 boats with a little thicker section where the cockpit tub is laminated to the hull bottom. What's puzzling is this increase in hull thickness is only a thread or two at most..., and the one-size-fits all plastic bailer fit just fine for nearly 30 years. Now, all of a sudden it's said not to work and caps now come in 13/16" (older hull) and 1-5/16" (newer hull) thread length.... 1/2" difference

Just be sure the length allows tightening so the O-ring on the hull bottom seals and the plug doesn't set so deep as to unseat the back-wash ball's seal ring internal to the bailer.

The precaution at this point is, if cutting down is called for, "measure twice, cut once"

 

[Halfcentury]

Thanks for all of your prompt assistance! I will take it out tonight. I have the necessary tools in the garage. I'll let you know how it goes. This forum is quite a blessing.