Clonefish Cam Cleat

S

Scott Adams

New Member
I just found a good deal on Craigslist. Picked up a Clonefish with a good Sunfish sail, rudder, centerboard and a larger scow trailer that fits the Clone well for $200.
I'd like to add a Sunfish Mainsheet Cam Cleat... Can anyone tell me where the best location to fix it to the boat? Also how do I fix it to the boat properly?
What do you guys think about just forward of the center board? BTW- there is no room between the cockpit and the center board.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Scott Adams said:
I just found a good deal on Craigslist. Picked up a Clonefish with a good Sunfish sail, rudder, centerboard and a larger scow trailer that fits the Clone well for $200.
I'd like to add a Sunfish Mainsheet Cam Cleat... Can anyone tell me where the best location to fix it to the boat? Also how do I fix it to the boat properly?
What do you guys think about just forward of the center board? BTW- there is no room between the cockpit and the center board.

Thanks,
Scott
Click to expand...
Can You post a pic with the sail up and we can then offer advice.
 
image.png
beldar boathead said:
Can You post a pic with the sail up and we can then offer advice.
Click to expand...
 
fhhuber said:
Resembles my Minifish.
Click to expand...
Good guess, but the sail panel arrangement is not right for a Minifish. Also the stern/transom area on this boat is different than a Minifish, and you can see in the cockpit where the screw holes are for the missing wood grab handles that the Amflite/Windflite came with.
 
I really like the Hexaratchet idea on the original hook.
But I am a little confused on how to mount a braket for the Hexaratchet block to the hook location. Will the original hook holes be strong enough? Is it required to put an inspection port in next to the dagger board to complete this job?
Thanks for all the help,
-Scott
 
Beldar,
Can you explain a little of the geometry that will not allow for cam clear or block to be placed just forward of the dagger board?

Thank you
Scott
 
Just forward of dagger is a bit of a reach even on the Minifish (has very similar molded in the deck splash deflector) and the molded splash deflector will interfere with holding the line low enough to get it to catch in the cleat.
You can fit a cleat between the dagger and the splashguard... or forward of the splashguard. It just wouldn't be as good as closer to the cockpit.

http://i.imgur.com/z05eDVF.jpg
My Minifish

OEM hook. That's all it came with to help hold the mainsheet.

added cam cleats for holding the mainsheet.
I run the mainsheet under the hook then into the cleat that's most convenient.
Not the best locations but they work out well enough.

Black cleat for the halyard so I can raise/lower sail easily (mainly lower when coasting to dock)

Bungee with clip hooks to the dagger so it doesn't drift away if the boat flips.
 
The eye strap that I use to hold my block and cam cleat combo to my Sunfish is only 3/8th of an inch wide at its widest. That eye strap is through bolted to the deck. Attached is a photo of the eye strap.

And here's a video thumbnail ("photo") plus video of my block and cam cleat combo. Sure you don't have enough room between the lip of the cockpit and the daggerboard? All you need is a tad over 3/8 of an inch.

- Andy

eyestrap.jpg
 
Can anyone comment on if at any time you add a block or a cleat to a location that already doesn't have a hard point item. Do you have to reinforce the inside of the hull? I other words can you just drill and screw in a block or a cleat?
So what is the proper way to mount a block/cleat should they all have a backing block for strength?
If that is the case I'll have to add an inspection plate... Is that difficult?
 
Scott Adams said:
Andy,

Just so we are on the same page. This boat is not a Sunfish it is a Windflite or AMFlite.

-S
Click to expand...
Hi Scott,
Yes, I am aware of that. But looking at the photo you provided, it looks like there is a smidgen of space between the aft end of the daggerboard case and the cockpit edge. As I said before, the eye strap I am referring to is only 3/8ths of and inch wide. You will only need a bit more space than that to mount the eye strap which you can then attach your main sheet block to.

The video and thumbnail of my set up is to provide a look at the eye strap I'm referring to, not the springs and mounting position of the cam cleat and block combo on my Sunfish.

Cheers,

- Andy
 
Andy,

Thanks, I will definitely try every possibility for fitting the eye strap. It is the option I like best.
Did you add any reinforcement to the eye strap? How did you fix it to the hull?

Thanks
Scott
 
Scott Adams said:
Can anyone comment on if at any time you add a block or a cleat to a location that already doesn't have a hard point item. Do you have to reinforce the inside of the hull? I other words can you just drill and screw in a block or a cleat?
So what is the proper way to mount a block/cleat should they all have a backing block for strength?
If that is the case I'll have to add an inspection plate... Is that difficult?
Click to expand...

Its best to add the backing block.

In my case I got lucky with the cam cleats and the screws caught the block for the OEM hook. Actually that's why they are where they are instead in better locations.

The halyard cleat hasn't been there long (used 2 trips to the lake) and will have a block installed when I put in an inspection port. I'd expect the cleat to pull the screws out after a few more trips to the lake if a backing block is not added.
 
Scott Adams said:
Do you have to reinforce the inside of the hull? I other words can you just drill and screw in a block or a cleat? So what is the proper way to mount a block/cleat should they all have a backing block for strength? If that is the case I'll have to add an inspection plate... Is that difficult?
Click to expand...

The best way is to drill your holes and mount an eye strap (see the photo below) with stainless bolts and nylon lock nuts that have large washers or a small backing plate between them and the deck.

But unless you have a very wide cockpit rim lip like on a Sunfish, you will have to cut an inspection port to get access to the inside of the hull. But an inspection port isn't so bad and quite easy to install. Plus, by the looks of photos of the Windflite and AMFlite it doesn't look like your cockpit has a storage area in the stern. So, you can turn your inspection port into a small storage area with a storage bag as seen by the attached photo below.

As far as mounting your block, you may even be able to mount the strap eye on that raised rim of your Windflite/AMFlite cockpit. Also attached is a photo of what I had in mind, mounted on a... Sunfish. :D

Best,

- Andy

block-sunfish.jpg


yhst-32154317745271_2273_23487585.gif
 
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Scott Adams said:
I really like the Hexaratchet idea on the original hook.
Will the original hook holes be strong enough? Is it required to put an inspection port in next to the dagger board to complete this job?
Thanks for all the help,
-Scott
Click to expand...

Well the hook was designed to handle the vertical load of the sheet, and a block will not have any more vertical load than the hook. So in theory it should work. If possible, you would want mount the block/pulley on top of the wood block to keep the load as close to the cockpit wall as possible so you the pull of the sheet is not "levering" the screws out of the cockpit wall. Putting in a port lets you put the block on the deck as shown in the Minifish pic, which would be the ideal solution.

BTW you cannot just screw a block into the fiberglass. It'll quickly pull out.

Another reason for not putting the block ahead of the daggerboard is if you are running with the board up and gybe either intentionally or not the sheet will be wrapped around the board.
 
Actually, in the Minifish the "backing block" is metal and I found its size with magnets.

You might be lucky and be able to do the same. Pull a screw on the original fitting and if its a machine screw instead of a wood screw, try a magnet.
 
Thank you everyone for the great suggestions...
Here's what I came up with. The original hook screws where slightly drilled out and a larger screw was used. There seems to be plenty of material in there to anchor on.

Great forum and thanks again,
Scott


image.jpeg
 
Let us know how that arrangement works out while you are on the water. My concern is that the block will hit the cockpit wall and not be able to swivel to face the sail. Also as the sheet goes slack while tacking it might end up a bit tangled up. Those problems would be easy to fix if they arise. Try it out, have fun, enjoy your boat.
 
Instead of the stainless shackle, I'd have used a stainless chain repair/quick link which would allow the block/cleat assembly to be more directly above the eye strap.
Mainly to avoid bending the eye strap. The shackle will have the block/cleat assembly applying force at an angle which gives it more leverage to bend the strap.

Such as: 1/8" Stainless Steel Quick Link
(may not be the desired size)
 
My thoughts as well, Oldpaint...
I figured I would first try and use the original hard point.
If there is too much trouble with hitting the cockpit and tangling I will rework the problem.
I have an inspection port standing by to be installed so I can confirm a new backing area is strong enough.

-S
 
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