Bedding deck hardware

[Warwick Armstrong]

I recently bought a 1962 Sunfish and I fear I made a poor purchase. On the first outing, the gudgeon bracket lifted so that the rudder could not be secured. The screws securing it were loose and had no bite. Dale, who sold it to me, suggested I use a butterfly anchor (as used in drywall). But I imagine that the screws tap into something more solid than a fiberglass wall. A internet search produced a BoatU.S. site with and article entitled "Bedding Deck Hardware", by Don Casey. He suggests 1. Drill fastener holes oversize 2. vacuum pulverized core material from the cavity. 3 Saturate exposed core with epoxy. 4 Mix colloidal silica into epoxy to thicken it. 5 Allow filler to cure fully then redrill mounting holes through the cured epoxy. 6. Sand and clean area under fitting, then bed the hardware. I have the same loose screw problem with the bow handle. Can someone with knowledge of fixing this problem in the AMF Alcort Sunfish, tell me the best way to proceed.
Warwick Armstrong

 

[L&VW]

My Sunfish's previous owner used plastic mollies to secure the splashboard. It was after winter's storms knocked my Sunfish around, that two mollies worked loose—and I discovered the use of plastic mollies in this boat.

I'll redo those plastic mollies for the splashboard, as it'd been strong enough with that repair for many years.

However, for your gudgeon bracket AND the bow handle, I'd use the prescribed repair that you've outlined above. (And, as long as you've got the gloves and brushes out—anything else that's likely to pull out).

 

[sailcraftri]

Both the bow handle and rudder parts probably have or had wood blocks glassed on the underside of the deck. The screws fastened into these. Over time they may have gotten wet and rotted or are still wet and will not old the screws. Your repair plan will work so long as the wood blocks are still there. If they have fallen (very common) you will most likely need to install inspection ports to replace the wood block with new ones or with aluminum. And as long as you have inspection ports I would just thru bolt them again with a hard wood block or aluminum.

You can search the forum as there have been multiple questions on this. There is also a book available on Sunfish repairs from Kent. Look on Amazon as well for his book.

 

[beldar boathead]

Pls. follow Sailcraft's advice. There is enough force on these parts that they need to go into a backing block. I don't think you should feel bad about this happening. It is a 52 year old boat and some repairs or upkeep should be expected - your Sunfish is faring much better than most other products that were made in 1962!!

By the way, regarding the repair guide that you read - you can't saturate the core of a Sunfish - a Sunfish is 100% fiberglass (with a gelcoat skin) so there is nothing to saturate. I think the guide you are reading refers to a boat with a foam or balsa or similar core.

 

[L&VW]

If you're going to the trouble of cutting an inspection port and replacing the blocks, try a stainless-steel backup plate.

I "liberated" a s/s spatula with previously drilled holes, and cut & ground it to fit. There are always holes that will line up—and there will be enough s/s material left over for a coupla'more backing plates. (Plastic cutting boards are another option).

 

[signal charlie]

Hi
There is a wooden block under the 1/8 inch thick deck, held in place by a thin piece of fiberglass that likes to break. if you hear things bumping around when tou turn your boat over, uh oh. You can try filling the holes with epoxy or try drilling a small hole next to the old hole. If wood shavings come out, you have block left and could shift over the hardware. Otherwise go for the inspection port route, the block may have fallen off or rotted away. If you decide to use wood, seal it with epoxy resin first and coat the fasteners as well.

Check out the Sunfish Pickin Columbus GA thread or my blog for more pics: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2014/04/sunfish-pickin-columbus-ga-hoops-and.html

Share some pics!

Kent

 

[L&VW]

My Sunfish's previous owner used plastic mollies to secure the splashboard. It was after winter's storms knocked my Sunfish around, that two mollies worked loose—and I discovered the use of plastic mollies in this boat.

I'll redo those plastic mollies for the splashboard, as it'd been strong enough with that repair for many years.

(Quoting myself, above).

Some Ace Hardware stores have mollies with one-piece stainless-steel backup plates. It's taken awhile, but I've located one. At nearly $4 each—one should be enough! (One of the splashboard attachment holes torn in the deck is bigger than ¼-inch).

Two or more of the outboard splashboard attachment holes inside are blocked from easy access by the factory-installed Styrofoam blocks.

This particular molly is made to take a ¼"-20 bolt, so it's plenty strong. While it's not the ultimate repair, my plan is to temporarily seal the ¼"-20 hole with Teflon tape or a wood/bamboo skewer, apply thickened epoxy resin, and bond it inside the hull. When set, cut away all the plastic parts, seal with non-silicone sealer. Reattach the splashboard with a suitable ¼"-20 bolt to match the other heads.

 

[Webfoot1]

Welcome to the fun of owning a Sunfish, most all older boats need work so your purchase
is "Situation Normal" from what you've posted so-far.

Easy way - Bed the bracket in 3M 5200 however you'll never be able to get the thing off if you
want to upgrade.

Best way- cut inspection hole then you have the option of upgrading to newer style rudder bracket.
`
Not so good way - Use spring molly, they are designed for tension loads, not shear loads. Eventually
they will just wear the holes bigger.

Hint - Even if you fix the top bracket the bottom bracket is soon to fall off. Go with the inspection port
and all mystery's will become clear. Recommend size, 6 inches for me, most others like a 4 inch port.