'82 laser, worth the trouble?

matt922

New Member
I've been wanting to learn how to sail for years and my dad always used to tell me how fun his laser was 20 or so years ago, so i figure if i can get into one cheap.. why not.

So here's the story, I went to look at a 82' today for $400, came with everything, but the guy sanded it down and just never finished it, or so the story goes. Original sail is in decent shape(for being so old atleast).

I am a firm believer in "if you are going to do the job, do it right", but with this, i kinda just want to finish sanding it, finish repairing a small crack that was cut out of the deck and be done with it. If i spend all winter trying to fix it up, i'll get bored with it.

But to be honest, its a $400, ~30 year old boat and i have 3 weeks of summer between semesters in college. I kinda just want to roll and tip it with some one part poly paint and call it a day, sail it for a season or two (if i like it) and pick up a nicer one or a 17 or 18 ft hobie.

The thing i'm kinda scared of is the fact that it has been taken apart and i don't really know where everything goes. I can figure out how to use it if its there, but reinventing it with out being familiar with it wouldn't be very fun.

I really wish i would have taken pics.. :(
 
pics would help with advice. as far as putting it back together APS has great diagrams on their website that you could print off and figure out where stuff goes.
 
If the mast step doesn't leak and the cockpit to hull union seems sound buy it.
I will definitely look into it. After some reading last night those seemed to be the two most important things. To check the mast step do i just fill it up and see if it leaks? Like wise with the union, fill up the joint with some water and look for leaks?

The guy said he fixes boats for a living and had intentions of sailing with his son and his sunfish, but he said he's had it a year and hasn't done it yet, so he figured he'd sell it. I hope to go check it out again, but this time with some cash(and a way to get it home.. :)).
 
I will definitely look into it. After some reading last night those seemed to be the two most important things. To check the mast step do i just fill it up and see if it leaks? Like wise with the union, fill up the joint with some water and look for leaks?

The guy said he fixes boats for a living and had intentions of sailing with his son and his sunfish, but he said he's had it a year and hasn't done it yet, so he figured he'd sell it. I hope to go check it out again, but this time with some cash(and a way to get it home.. :)).

Mast step is easy, just pour water down in there and see if it leaks.

If it does leak then perform the mast step repair/reinforcement that’s outlined many times and different ways in this forum. I’d recommend reading as much as possible about the repair and go about the repair the way you want.

If the mast step doesn’t leak… well there’s differing views on this matter. Some say it’s not worth doing the mast step repair/reinforcement if the mast step doesn’t leak, the hole in the deck just isn’t worth it. Others including myself say that performing the repair/reinforcement is vital on old boats even if the mast step doesn’t leak for two reasons. One is that replacing the mast step after it’s blown out is expensive ($350 USD) and hard to do (many agree on that). Two just because a mast step doesn’t leak doesn’t mean that the bondo material holding it in place isn’t compromised, which could lead to failure of the mast step.

Cockpit to hull union is a bit more tricky to diagnose. Two ways to diagnose this, others feel free to provide other tricks.

One is the soapy water test for the cockpit drain. Simply soap the area of the cockpit drain and blow air with your lungs through the transom plug. Then look to see if there are bubbles. The soap test tells you nothing of the structural integrity of the cockpit to hull union, however it can be an indicator of a larger problem and is a good start.

**As stated by many in this forum using a vacuum on reverse or a compressor is not necessary for the soapy water test and could lead to severe damage to the boat, your lungs have enough power to do the job**

Two is simple and quite unscientific and that’s just simply man handling the boat to see if there’s movement between the cockpit and hull. Try putting the boat on a trailer, have a friend old the stern in place and put your hand in the corner of the cockpit and push to see if it moves.

I can relate to your potential purchase. My wife and I each purchased a Laser for $400 (a 79’ and 81’), I’ve done the mast step repair/reinforcement on both and the hull to cockpit repair on one. Counting materials, replacement parts and non class legal upgrades I roughly spent another $400 on each. The boats are dry, sound and perfect for what we got them for, which is for blasting around at the cottage, local lakes or on camping trips.

Bottom line for $400 a Laser with a mast step and a hull to cockpit union that is still serviceable, that has all of its parts is a deal. That is unless you plan on racing.

Good luck on your purchase.
 
WOW! Thanks! Great post and contained about everything i had asked for. I'm probably just going to do a thorough once over it today and buy it, then i will check for the bad news at home. :eek:(i hate to waste the guy's time looking it over with a fine tooth comb on such a deal)

One more question.. I found a really good deal on a compressor with enough oomf to handle a spray gun.

What is the best paint i can buy that does NOT contain the isocyanates?(the bad stuff in perfection and awl grip). Do any two parts not contain the cyanate stuff, or am i stuck spraying some 1 part brightside or such?
 
looks as if the mast step has already been reinforced..

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Heck, for $400, you can't go wrong. If it needs a little repair, do that and sell it for twice that a year from now.

Getting on the water is the most important thing. If you don't decide to buy, go to a local yacht club and tell them you want to learn to sail. You will be amazed on how many people are willing to get you started.

Good luck!
 
bought it the other day just didnt feel like uploading a bunch of pics(semi slow connection)

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anyone have any advice on how to fix the two bad spots on the front/edge? Do i just use filler or should i use some cloth/resin?

I have decided to gelcoat it vs awlgrip/perfection.

I'm currently waiting on my RO palm sander to arrive.
 
hopefully the bottom is not soft, but otherwise nothing you can't fix with some good old fashion grunt work. you won't like the RO sander on the bottom it doesnt work with the curves, try a 2 ft long board you can pick them up at your local auto parts store or paint store
 
if the last two digits are the year the boat was made, it turns out this boat is a '76.

after a couple of hours of sanding with the RO, it turns out there are a few larger dimpled areas in the hull.


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can anyone tell me what i'm missing from the deck/cockpit?
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I dont *think* that you are missing anything... maybe a little rectangular piece of plastic...

Starting at the top, going generally left to right in your pic....

-mainsheet cleats (2), mount port and starboard of the cockpit
- the thing with the line attached is the traveler block and line, attaches to the aft of the boat, and it appears the traveler cleat is there as well.
- The big block is the mainsheet block, it, the fore end of the hiking strap, and the daggerboad brake mount just behind the daggerboard, and it involves that little rectangle of plastic (check APS's website for how it fits together)
- the next two little black things are the old school plastic traveler fairleads. Consider buying new aluminum ones of these, or just use what you have.
- the next is the cunningham cleat, on an old boat like this it mounts abnout halfway between the cockpit and the mast step
- then the two little metal fairleads are for the aft of the hiking strap. they mount on the aft wall of the cockpit (through bolt them if you can)
- next is the white square of plastic, I think there should be two of these, cant remember. this holds down the daggerboard brake and the the hiking strap, and then the mainsheet block attaches on top of that (again, check APS's drawings)...
- next is the daggerboard brake itself, it's job is to keep the daggerboard in place, and it doesnt do that very well.
- then finally is the bow eye, it goes at the very fore of the deck...

Nice find, for $400 you cant go too wrong...
 
Thanks, Pez! It's really confusing knowing what I actually need with all of these "upgraded vang/harken/cunninghams" available.

I didn't think i did too bad until i realized how much i would be spending on tools, supplies, etc. Saw one with trailer/original gelcoat/etc for $750 last night and about made me cry uncle. :p

Primer, gel coat, spray gun, and respirator all show up this week. I have a family member coming over wednesday afternoon to help with the hull repairs. I am scheduled to have my wisdom teeth taken out on Thursday, so as soon as i recover from that, hopefully i'll be spraying some gel . As soon as i get some of the gel down i am going to order some new grab rails, hiking strap, traveler fairleads, etc. Looking to get on the water as soon as i can. :cool:

Does anyone have the slightest clue where i can get silver,white, or black laser decals for the side of the hull? (westcoast sailing only has red and yellow - i'm painting the hull red, and yellow isn't gonna float for me)
 
Thanks, Pez! It's really confusing knowing what I actually need with all of these "upgraded vang/harken/cunninghams" available.

I didn't think i did too bad until i realized how much i would be spending on tools, supplies, etc. Saw one with trailer/original gelcoat/etc for $750 last night and about made me cry uncle. :p

Primer, gel coat, spray gun, and respirator all show up this week. I have a family member coming over wednesday afternoon to help with the hull repairs. I am scheduled to have my wisdom teeth taken out on Thursday, so as soon as i recover from that, hopefully i'll be spraying some gel . As soon as i get some of the gel down i am going to order some new grab rails, hiking strap, traveler fairleads, etc. Looking to get on the water as soon as i can. :cool:

Does anyone have the slightest clue where i can get silver,white, or black laser decals for the side of the hull? (westcoast sailing only has red and yellow - i'm painting the hull red, and yellow isn't gonna float for me)

I'm pretty sure you will have all the oldest gear... so IF you decide to upgrade you will have some more stuff to replace than the average, the vang tang near the base of the mast bottom section changed at some point and the new style vangs wont fit. Also the way that the vang key attaches to tbe boom changed, and there's a reinforcement sleeve you need to buy...

The guy didn't have the old grab rails? That's kinda odd... I'm guessing they should have been wood on a boat this old. IMHO, the wooden blades and grab rails are some of the things that make boats like this rewarding... though it looks like the blades you do show are not the big huge chunks of wood they should be.

Anyway, looked through your pics again and you are missing the drain plug assembly as well... the good news it that's one of the cheapest parts you can buy. My $0.02 is that you should buy one drain plug assembly and an extra plug.

There are many on this forum that would probably gasp audibly, but I would repair the two bad spots on the front with automotive "Bondo." it's pretty easy to work with and you can shape it nicely with sandpaper. It wont last forever as it's not designed to be exposed to water for prolonged periods, but it will last a couple years anyway.

As far as "is this boat worth it," I think it is if your goals are to find something to whet your sailing appetite before getting what you really want, like a better laser or a (cough cough) hobie. Just don't get hung up on making it perfect.
 
I have the grab rails, but one is broken in half(other is fine), figured i'd buy new ones.

My dad had an older laser as well and mentioned the wooden rudder/daggerboard, i have seen wood in some spots, but for the most part i think you are right with them being fiberglass :mad:. After some reading about the boom and how people swap all the brackets around from the oxidation around the rivets, i noticed who ever owned this boat previously did that because there are holes at opposite ends of the brackets.

I'm trying to fix it quick, but trying to do it to the best of my ability at the same time. The easier it is for me to sell- the better. :)

Probably about to head up to west marine to see if they have some evercoat filler(pretty decent price on their site). I don't want to have issues with the primer/gelcoat bonding to the surface.

Another random question (for anyone) Is there anyway to bring back the textured surface to the deck?
 

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