3-loop vs. 2-loop bridle

baseman

baseman

On the Water
I was thinking about converting my 3 loop bridle to a 2 loop. I think I can remove the crimp on the 3rd loop without removing the bridle. I would have to add a block for the mainsheet. I'm looking for recommendations on what to use for a block. It's not a sunfish (it's a hybrid, Viking hull, Phantom spars, Sunfish sail), and I don't need to be class legal.
 
If you remove the crimp hardware, you will never get the bent wire straight and it will hang up every time you tack in light air.
Why not just remove the old bridle and replace it with a new two loop bridle or even a length of non-stretch line? If you are not racing it, nobody will case. By the way, your hybrid is sometimes referred to as a "Frankenboat", the nautical equivalent of a Rat Rod that you see on the TV reality car shows.

Caution: If you remove the current bridle by removing the deck eyes, don't take both screws out at the same time or my may hear the dreaded "clunk" as the backing block under the deck falls away from the underside of the deck and ends up in the bilge below. Loosen one screw just a little, then remove the second, install the new bridle and immediately screw the second screw back in. Replacing a fallen backing block is a somewhat major undertaking.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Thanks Alan. I know what to do to replace the bridle, I just need to know what to use for a block. I don't use the spring clip on the mainsheet, I just tie the sheet to the middle loop.
 
Guess I asked the wrong question. It doesn't look like I have the option to delete this thread.
The real question is....
What do I use for a block when I basically turn the bridle into a traveler?
 
Usually the ratchet block is on the front of the cockpit and a bowline is used to tie the sheet to the bridle
 
You don't really need a block. Just loop the end of the mainsheet around the 2-loop bridle, tie with a bowline knot and go sailing, It will flop back and forth nicely as you tack and gybe.

Alan Glos
 
Hi Baseman,

I think I know what you're getting at. When I got my old Sunfish, it had a 3 loop, cable bridle on the stern. It was one that someone had made as the original had likely rusted off. I prefer rope so I just got out the wire cutters and cut the two end loops of cable off of the deck eyes.

I then made up a 3 loop bridle out of non stretch rope, using the stock length of the cable bridles that various places have for sale. The first photo below is of my 3 loop bridle with my main sheet tied to it. This is just a simulated photo that I did for you.

three_loop.jpg


The next photo shows the knots I use to tie each end of the bridle to the deck eyes. I take the end of the bridle and make a single knot on the end after passing the rope through the deck eye. I then pass the end of the rope through itself (a half hitch?) and then cinch it down. The single knot on the end of the bridle keeps the line from slipping further. No bowline or any other type of special knot required.

traveler_knot.jpg


The 3rd photo shows the knot I use to tie the main sheet to whatever bridle I'm using at the time. In this case, it's my 2 loop bridle. It's exactly the same kind of knot as described above. A knot on the tail end of the main sheet then passed through itself... just like the knot that ties the bridle to the deck eyes.

main_sheet_knot.jpg


The next photo is of my 2 loop bridle which, as you point out, is more of a traveler, with a block on it and the block tied to the main sheet. I created this set up so that in stronger winds when I sheet in a lot, the direction of pull is more towards the leeward edge of the deck... much like a Laser traveler. That way, I'm not pulling as much towards the centerline of the boat like when I have my 3 loop bridle. This means I can flatten the sail and depower it but not bring it as close to the centerline of the boat. That is, a flat sail but still sheeted out a bit.

two_loop_with_block.jpg


The next photo is of the Ronstan block I use on the 2 loop bridle/traveler. The arrow shows the space of the loop above the sheave on the block. I made sure that this space was big enough so that my main sheet can just pass through it. I tie the main sheet to this block with the same knots as described above.

ronstan_block.jpg


I like having these two rope only bridles because they are super easy to swap out depending on whether or not it's light to medium winds (where I use the 3 loop bridle) or very strong (where I use the 2 loop bridle/traveler and Ronstan block).

Is that what you were trying to ask? :)

Cheers,

- Andy
 
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When I helped out at the US Sunfish Masters this year I noticed about all the racers use a bowline to tie off to the traveler and do not use a block or hook.
 
The simple and foolproof way to tie on a rope bridle is to slip the line thru the bridle eye and tie a figure 8 knot.
 
Thanks all. I can replace the cable bridle with line. If I have a b;ock lying around that I'm not using, I'll try that. If not, I'll just tie the mainsheet with a bowline. I use a bowline now on the 3 loop. I don't trust the snap hooks.
 
We use a small Ronstan block and 3/16 inch line for a traveler. We either tie a bowline to the bock or use a snap hook.
 
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