1975 sunfish restore hull/deck

P323

New Member
I am attempting to restore my old sunfish. These are some picture I took while taking the deck off. I'm not sure how to cut the centerboard trunk out?
 

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I am attempting to restore my old sunfish. These are some picture I took while taking the deck off. I'm not sure how to cut the centerboard trunk out?

as you can see in your last picture
the deck is attached to the daggerboarf trunk with epoxy, take it off carefully and you will find that the deck folds inside the trink like this
 

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I am also thinking about adding a stringer on each side of the hull bottom, with a bulkhead just forward of the mast trunk. I sail in the Chesapeake Bay, the boat takes a lot of pounding from the chop.
 
Why do you want to take the deck off? You should have full access to everywhere you need with what you hav done already. Trying to put it back together is going to be hard enough without having taken the deck offf the trunk. Usually these deck-off projects turn into Sunfish destructions instead of restorations, so you should try and keep it (relatively) simple.

You are probably planning to sail it recreationally and not race, but if you add bulkheads and stringers it will not be race legal. BB
 
Well... being so old it's really not too competitive. It's more of a "see if I can do it" kind of project. It has been drying for almost a year and some of the foam block are heavy still. I think adding reinforcements wont give me any more of a competitive edge than any of the newer boats. You may be right, I may be able to do everything I need to without cutting the trunk out.
This project makes me think twice about buying an old sunfish.

Meanwhile I have my other flexy boat I'm using.. : )
 
Interesting learning project. But most advisors on this Forum will agree with beldar that there are easier ways to solve the wet foam problem. Keep us informed though, we all want to learn.

Regarding the pounding in chop, I am trying to learn to use my body to minimize the pounding. Quick body movements fore and aft coordinated with quick tiller movements.
 
I was also thinking that cutting the trunk loose would create more problems than it is worth. Putting a bulkhead forward of the mast tube is a good idea. A couple of U-Bolts through the bulkhead and around the mast tube would add a lot of strength. I'd aim for a result that gives you a heaver Sunfish but one that can withstands high winds and a pounding without ripping the mast out. I see a possible YouTube 'Extreme Sunfish Sailing Video' when you get this all done.
 
I am attempting to restore my old sunfish. These are some picture I took while taking the deck off. I'm not sure how to cut the centerboard trunk out?

I had an old 72 that had loose foam blocks up front. I wanted to peel up the bow also, to reset them. I was nervous about jumping into this, and after looking at your pics, i'm glad that I sold it! Mine was going to be a see-if- I-can-do-it project, also. I was concerned with re attching the deck to hull conection. It would have to be a quick one chance at it, I didn't like the odds.
 
I will be using epoxy resin/glass and some type of foam for stringers and bulkheads. The weight will be as low as possible. I currently race with the local group, all with boats built in this century. In light air and flat water I am competitive, in chop or wind above 10kts I get beat every time.
I am planning on using 5200 to glue the deck on followed by a glass wrap around the edges then cover with vinyl protector.
 
I am attempting to restore my old sunfish. These are some picture I took while taking the deck off. I'm not sure how to cut the centerboard trunk out? It really looks like it's glassed to the deck. How did they glass both top and bottom?
It is glassed to the deck and hull. They fiberglass the trunk to the hull bottom then attach the deck, fiberglassing all the final bits together at once. Good bet the factory uses a slower acting catalyst in their resin.

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I am also thinking about adding a stringer on each side of the hull bottom, with a bulkhead just forward of the mast trunk… I will be using epoxy resin/glass and some type of foam for stringers and bulkheads.
I’ve contemplated doing a couple of stringers…, angle aluminum or hollow fiberglass half-rounds. No wood or foam filler, I think that would just give moisture a hiding place to do future damage.



It has been drying for almost a year and some of the foam block are heavy still.

I may be able to do everything I need to without cutting the trunk out.

This project makes me think twice about buying an old sunfish.

I have found the slow vortex wind tunnel dries foam blocks in just a few months, while open, unassisted drying can take years.

I’d leave the mast tube and daggerboard trunk connected and work through the openings you’ve already created. You may discover deck crown and squareness of the hull have already become reassembly issues. Notice in the factory photos the fixtures the hulls are cradled in.

This experience will definitely make you a more scrupulous shopper.



I am planning on using 5200 to glue the deck on followed by a glass wrap around the edges then cover with vinyl protector.
3M 5200 is an extra sticky caulk, but it’s a really wimpy structural component. The deck to hull seam needs to have a lot of rigid torsional resistance. You might be better off considering glassing the two components back the way the boat was originally constructed.


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I plan on using foam stringers and encapsulate it with glass to keep water from getting to it.
I will glue the deck on with 5200 then wrap glass around the edge. This will make for a much stronger joint. The original hull/deck joint was not so strong. They used wetted mat glass to bond the deck onto the hull. I was able to pop it loose with just a screwdriver. Chopped mat glass is not strong at all by itself.
 
More pictures with the deck removed.
 

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Well, that's one clean removal job. I'm sure I'd loose patience myself and resort to the 'Auto-Hammer.'

Just a thought, how about skipping the foam blocks and making some hollow flotation chambers out of fiberglass. A few bulkheads would to the trick although each flotation chamber would need a small drain. I guess critics could say that if you ripped all four flotation chambers open a once you would recreate the 'Titanic.' Maybe a Ball on the mast like a AquaCat would prevent the final sinking.:rolleyes:
 
Taking it apart is easy. Putting it together again so the boat doesn't leak, is squared up, looks halfway professional and doesn't come apart again is the hard part. BB
 
:) Thank you for the follow-up with pictures. I'd been wondering how a "peel" project like this, would work out. Eppoxy is great stuff. I never use "fast-setting" epoxy as things often need a tender touch.

I was going to suggest cutting the daggerboard trunk well-away from the waterline, which is just what you have done. I'd be tempted to sail only the hull right now! :p

I plan on using foam stringers and encapsulate it with glass to keep water from getting to it..

Remember the old plumber's axiom: ;)
"Water always wins."
 

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