Looks like the extension has had a section near the end rolled in to retain the insert. I think you need to cut the rolled part off the extension without cutting through the rubber, then pull out the broken joint. You will lose 10mm or so of the extension.
Retain the new insert with a screw or...
I would be worried about the cracks that appear to be under the mast step. It suggests that reinforcing is needed in the base of the mast hole, especially if water leaks out of it
Mine are now 17 yrs old and still fine. Yes, I've had the boat for 23yrs but I'm now 80 and and still a reasonable club sailor and keep saying 'I'll sail it for another year'
The T bars on my trolley never fitted the hull properly, so I took them off.
The 1986 boat has been sitting on the trolley like that for 15+ years with no deformation.
It may be an issue with a new hull which may notbe fully cured
Don't move the gudgeon, this will raise the iller and affect the rudder latch.
Drill new holes in the gudgeon and boat; there is room for another 4 screws if needed.
Alternatively, as I look after our club dinghies including Toppers, and they got damaged when bringing the ashore with the bailer down, I have used a brass hinge to repair them
I bought my 1986 Laser used about 20 years ago. Soon after I removed the gunwale supports as they didn't fit the hull. After 20 seasons , there are no indentations at all.
I think that these may occur on new hulls that are not fully cured but it has not been a problem for me, and it's easier...
Hello, we have an abandoned hull at our club. Has anyone thought of attaching simple foils say, ahead of the centreboard and rudder. I know there are kits avalailabe , but that's not the point, is it? besides the cost
Not for me; at 78, my balance is not as good as it was but I can still manage...
I have made various mods for our club fleet which have all three rigs-.
Loop of rope attached to the 4.7 clews so that the outhaul doesn't have to be adjusted radically
Outhaul pulley at the gooseneck fitted with a hook to hook into the gooseneck hole; if it isn't at the top, drill another one...
...and don't forget to fill any redundant holes in the topmast with rivets or whatever so that it doesn't fill up when you capsize.
Use only one rivet to hold the topmast collar if your current one has two.
Difficult to do with the boom as you have to move the reinforcing sleeve.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.