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I added the Harken furler and have been happy with the result. Stepping the mast is just as easy as before when I use the jib halyard and another few feet of line. Tie the line to the trailer mast support and the hib halyard. Raise the mast with help from the halyard. Press the mast well...

Larry, Northwest lumber in Indianapolis carries teak. It is expensive, about $20/bd foot. I made a splash rail for my Mod 2 and still have some teak.

I converted my centerboard control to the mod 3 style. It was less expensive than replacing the mod 2 hardware, has less block less friction, and seems to be easier for single handed sailing. Remove everything except the two blocks just below the cuddy. Remove the starboard block but use...

Two more boom position questions I have two related boom position questions that came up while setting up my boomkicker. 1. How high should the boom, or more specifically the gooseneck, be from the base of the mast? I have not seen any specific dimensions on drawings in the manual. 2...

I converted to the newer system and like it much better as well.

Dave, Thanks for the tip. They work great and saved a hundred dollars compared to swivel cars.

I am thinking of replacing my jib car with either Harken H452 or Ronstan 81942. The swivel feature looks attractive for single handed sailing by keeping the cleat in line with the skipper rather than pulling at an angle. Also, I thought the swivel fairlead might allow the jib sheet to release...

My centerboard seems to stick from time to time. I have removed it cleaned and polished it. Still it sticks - but only sometimes. Does anyone recommend lubrication or will that collect dirt and make matters worse? If lubricatoin helps, what should it be?

I had some teak so I used it but other hardwoods should also last for years.

Battery Charger My Capri 14.2 sits on a trailer at the club during the week. There is no electricity around so I mounted a solar battery charger to refresh teh battery. Here is a solar battery charger mounted on the stern. It removes easily for sailing

Jib Car Some people take part the Jib Car to cut off the knurled knob. Here is a quick and dirty way to keep the jib sheet from getting tangled without cutting any hardware. Make a small collar. Mine is of wood, but other materials will do just fine.

My 14.2 had stern cleats when I bought it. They caused some scary times. The particular cleat had an eye hole in it. Since they were plastic, I got the hacksaw out and converted them to eyes. This was less drastic than removal and hole patching. It is not perfect but much better. The main sheet...

I used rubber weather strip. The latch presses the door tight for a nice seal.

Just be careful about any excess lift line at the end of the boom. This realy strange, but it just happened two weeks ago. Whoever rigged the lift left about four inches of excess line dangling. Somehow that excess line found it's way in the mainsheet block at the end of the boom just when the...

There are several who have made the change. Regularman and I have posts about ours. You can find one in the thread below. http://www.capri14.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124

Looking good. Colors ar much better on my screen. Many links were nearly hidden before.

Try using a real thin putty knife to cut mots of the silicone before prying. That worked when I made my hatch cover. If you search this web, you can find at least three approaches to hatch covers.

I did not replace the bag because I like the solid Teak. Instead I installed a couple of small rope holders for the sheets - one port and one starboard. Here are some part numbers and "could have done betters" not easily seen in the original picture.

I made out of teak. It will also lift off of the hinges for full access.

That is the setup I changed mine to. The single line works better for me.