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They're about £3.80 I think and I've just drilled the fairlead and screwed it on and it looks right thanks again :)

Oh so I assume it just screws into the top of the plastic of the fairlead then. If that's where you've seen them that's what I'll go with it sounds much better than drilling into my foredeck :) thanks :)

this is where i would do the inspection the other way so basically i would cut that cracked section out of the hull to get in to see the mast step and whilst you've got it open there's no harm in re-enforcing the bottom of the doughnut and the deck joint too - I've repaired a few recently that...

so as the bow wind indicators were a tremendous flop and nobody bought one so i bought one slightly cheep from my boss but there's a catch there was no outer packaging and therefore no instructions and now i have no clue as to where to put it the ilca and ulca websites shine no light on the...

looks like true blue with a dash of smoke grey but as with all colour matching you would have to clean up a patch with cutting compound as that boat looks really dirty. the other thing is you cannot really tell from a pc or a photo as the camera and the display settings could make it look like a...

if that little breather hole was blocked you could have burst bonding paste out of a seam and that is one of the reasons why you should never leave the bung in the boat so check the gunwhales and the bailer the fittings should all be sealed on with silicone and therefore should not leak you...

why did you sand the hull that just makes it really hard to repair at a later date and achieves nothing as far as I can see. oh and never use car products on gel coat they have a chemical in them that oxidises gel coat but is good for car paintwork oh and after the cutting compound you need...

sorry if you have seen this reply on the other thread but it really is an easy repair and mast steps are piss easy I can do some of those without an inspection port now :) and there is loads of information on how to repair them on here. your crack in the side deck could do with the section...

Once you have mastered the technique you can charge about £60/m² just for labour ;) it's really quite simple basically you need epoxy a syringe, a drill, some gym weights, masking tape, hardboard, plenty of wipes, a heater, a Dremel or similar rotary tool gel coat and acetone and LDPE sheet...

not that much probibily a few muinets per hour your better spending your time practicing sailing or polishing your hull or startching your sail

i like dawn/vela grey lasers there much faster to repair you just get the gel out of the jar catalyse it and slap it on job done where as coloured boats have to be matched and yeh you do get charged for the half hour - full hour that it often takes to match the colour when it goes in for repair...

I think the oval mast step may be a lucky accident rather than desingh. Best place to buy new parts is 1st mark.co.uk the e commerce site hasnt been made yet but they do take telephone orders for the time being.

GXD is obsolete old version of XD it stands for Gold Xtra Dimension i believe. i also believe it can be updated to XD i dont actually know the differance as i have never knowingley seen one i've only been told about it.

if your daggerboard wobbles in the slot fit jap tape to the inside of the slot

where i work we take all boats and foils to 1500 grit before using 3M high gloss gelcoat compound with plenty of water you should be able to see your own eyelashes in it before we send them out just use lots of water with the cutting compound but not so much that you wash it away and they'll...

Ahh right the reason they use shity north sails now is because the laser centre is f*%"^! naff basically the US division of the company has drained all the money out of the the UK then expects the UK to supply the EU with stock leaving no stock and therefore no money for the UK division to pay...

Somebody should distribute those cockpit lockbox lockpit things to the uk and some decent covers that won't tear or split and are breathable and most importantly weatherproof I think those lockout things may sell to somebody who sails for pleasure and therefore only carries one rig no Sapir top...

thats nothing like the uk system that will bounce and rub your boat as it is rested on the tyres and the front end relies on rope to hold it down it isnt even on an a frame trolly 90% of ours are like this http://www.mccreadysailboats.co.uk/index.php?page=packages

i've heard the new box section ones are even tougher than the old tubular ones. I have a Mersea Trailers trolly (dolly) and road base (trailer) i say this but all laser trailers in the uk are made by Mersea Trailers even the genuine ones however they will only sell the genuine ones through...

for the delamination drill a series of small holes in it and use lots of masking tape to cover the rest of the area don't be shy with the masking tape or you'll regret it and inject epoxy resin into the void then place an LDPE sheet over the top and a piece of hardboard on that place as much...