My thoughts exactly. And can you imagine how sticky the bottom of the mast is going to be???
Of course, on the other hand, not much really good beer comes in cans....
I'm also recreational, fwiw. Sample of 3 (c: .. however, I won't 'modify' my boat for any reason unless it's class approved. It kills the $$ value. And I'm cheap.
If I can find a group to race with, I will do so next year. At least this is what I always say (c:
Concerning the first question, it would be my opinion that nearly all of the active Lasers are raced. Although there are a fair number of recreational sailors, the vast majority of users are racers. There are also an amazing number of Lasers that sit on club grounds and see neither...
Tony, that is a strange deal. As I remember, the upper mast is 'bushed up' on the correct end.. IE its OD is significantly smaller than the ID of the lower mast, so I can't sort out how it could get stuck. Of course I am old and slow, so it might be real easy...
If you have a 4.7 lower mast...
You need to make sure the beam is not wider than the posts on the laser dolly. I put dimensions somewhere here recently. Take a look around for them to check your numbers.
Also, the dolly is set up for a specific center of gravity. For trailering purposes, it's in the vicinity of the main...
For a good start, try http://sailingforums.com/threads/laser-mast-step-repair-not-a-kit.23720/
The search engine has a tab that says 'more' on it, and if you click that and enter your data, you will have more luck. I cannot say why, but this has been my experience in the past.
For what it's...
This is the official instruction manual for the boat. You might be able to identify the part you are concerned about using these diagrams.
http://na.laserperformance.com/images/assets/pdfs/laser/laser2regatta.pdf
This is a rigging manual that's pretty specific about parts names, etc...
OK, let's try again. Sorry for the earlier confusion...
Here's some pictures of my cheap trailer. It uses a standard $250 Northern Tools trailer and modifications to make it Laser friendly. Material is a 10' piece of treated deck wood ( 5.5" wide, about an inch thick ) two 8" angles from the...
I will have to source them from somewhere else. I can see them, but I think it's cause they are cached on my computer. Will return after a bit (c:
I'd love to see pix of your application as well. That's the next step, I think (c:
Here's some pictures of my cheap trailer. It uses a standard $250 Northern Tools trailer and modifications to make it Laser friendly. Material is a 10' piece of treated deck wood ( 5.5" wide, about an inch thick ) two 8" angles from the hardware store, two carpet scraps and a handful of nuts...
I have a wood rudder on an older Laser, just finished fixing it up for the grand kids. The splits were similar to what you have, plus a big divot out of the bottom corner. I flexed the cracks, allowing them to absorb the 1 hour epoxy I used... they soaked it right up. then just allowed it to...
And not to be a pessimist, but if the transom section ripped, there's a good chance that UV has damaged much of the rest of the cover. So be frugal ( none of us are cheap ) about the repair, as you may find that the entire cover is rotten.
I've found that most rips are actually sewing thread...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.