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Re: Crack down the middleps What about filling the void between the cockpit floor and the base of the keel solid with either resin, resin with microspheres, or resin with chopped glass? The first would be easiest but perhaps weak, although your talking about compressive loading, so you...

If it is indeed hovering, at least you can rest assured because the hull must be dry...

There is one more advantage to add to your diagram for the latter three images. Using the block/hook on the deck allows the sail to be oversheeted, putting a bend in the boom. This bend will take the draft out of the sail, reducing power and drag in heavy air. This is more or less the same...

I could probably grab some this weekend. She's spent the winter hoisted up in the garage ceiling.

Thanks for the warning, but I don't race my Sunfish. It's just for fun. I do race keelboats, however.

+1 on the rope bridle. I replaced my wire bridle with rope several years ago. I'm presently using 5mm Marlow Excel Racing line for my bridle, halyard, and jens line on my '69 Sunfish. I use a small block to attach the mainsheet to the bridle.

It might be. If it became waterlogged, it would fall apart in freezing conditions.

Keep in mind that while woods other than mahogany might be less than ideal, you can always coat your board with fiberglass and epoxy. It will be much more durable and water resistant than varnish.

Even better than silicone is polysulfide caulks. Definitely do not use 5200. The bond is stronger than fiberglass. Here's an article that might help: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance-articles/19922-mounting-deck-hardware.html

I watched nearly all of race 2, and she hit 33kts in 10kts of air. (Keep in mind that this was the wind speed at the surface; BMWO's rig is as tall as a 20-story building.

I found myself in similar winds this summer (18kts gusting to 25) out on Lake Michigan. First, be sure the halyard and gooseneck are set such that the boom is relatively low to the deck. The lower the center of effort on the sail, the easier it is to handle. Second, buy some extra line and...

As it's a mere 40 years old, it must just be hitting it's prime...

I would think that it would help. It definitely seems that you can dial in some curve to the boom with the vang. I won't profess to be an expert on Sunfish trim, but I've spent plenty of time racing keelboats. What made me think to mention the draft issue was from an observation on the Lake...

I don't think the sheet will pull in the correct spot to get a healthy curve in the boom. Of course, with two people, it probably won't matter much.

I think the hard part of sheeting from the back is that you won't be able to sheet in tight in heavy wind. When your sheet in tight, the boom will bend, flattening and depowering the sail.

I'd stay away from a short wetsuit in the winter. It's OK for 55-60 degree water, but will be completely inadequate in December. I'd think about a drysuit.

Thanks. That's exactly the advice I was looking for. I'll be reusing the screws, as they are in good shape. They are large, bronze wood screws, as shown in the picture below. I actually managed to bend the bracket as well, about 1/8". I spent some careful time on the vise getting it flat...

I had a small incident on my '69 sunfish last week. She has the old style rudder. I had her in Lake Michigan, on a breezy afternoon (16kts gusting to 20). Somehow, landing in the surf, I managed to put a side load on the rudder, and managed to pull two of the three screws that hold the upper...

Do you still need dimensions for this part? Mine is accessible. I can take some pictures and sketch up a crude blueprint if you need it. I've got a fairly extensive machining background as well.