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Hi everyone, it's been a while since I've last posted here, but I've just joined the Newport frostbiting fleet so now I'm trying to decide what will work best to stay warm. A lot's already been covered and I plan on going out with a 4:3 wetsuit, hat, boots and gloves to start. Just wondering...

Try using Soft Scrub first. Apply it with a sponge and once you've got the hull nice and covered in foam and soap suds, let it sit for a 15 minutes. If you can do this in the sun, even better. Then Rinse off and repeat. Soft Scrub has bleech, so letting the suds sit gives the bleach time to do...

Personally, I would not cut anything into my boat untill it starts leaking. From experience and what other sailors have said, no matter HOW much silicon you use those things leak anyways. Is it possible that what you hear rolling around inside are the cubitainers (plastic flotation devices)...

I have used the Prevals with gelcoat and it was a major pain in the butt. I would seriously consider rolling and tipping Perfection or Awlgrip.

Since I started my hobby/buisness One Design Retsoration where I restore Lasers, I have studied the class rules thoroughly and have asked many officals their opinions. What I have recieved is quite clear: If you have an older boat with defects that you would like to repair/restore then it is...

In the Summer 2005 issue of The Laser Sailor, Vanguard is quoted as saying, "The end result is a Carbon Section that is about 12% more flexible and about 50% higher breaking strength than the typical aluminum section." The article aslso goes on to say, "The Laser World Council placed a goal...

When they say cunningham they mean CUNNINGHAM!! When it's really blowing out there and I can't hold the boat flat I have it cranked on so the eyelet is at the gooseneck. If I know it's going to be windy out there, I'll rig the cunningham on one side of the boom so I can get it down even further...

Here's a link to a page of photos from the 2005 Laser 4.7 Worlds currently being held in Barrington, Rhode Island. This first link is the yellow and the second link is the blue. http://robjones.smugmug.com/gallery/721266/1/31623622 http://robjones.smugmug.com/gallery/721266/2/31624679...

Hey George, would you mind posting a picture whenever you get an '06 boat in stock?

Please send me a PM or better yet e-mail one to: onedesignrestoration @ comcast.net Cheers!

Yup, I'm in the club. It's a colorful scene...to say the least.

I just got my Awlgrip order in today for my 13' Whaler chase boat I'm restoring. I'll post pictures and well as describe the process when it's finished just as reference.

We just drove 6 hours away to New Jersey for ACC's with a laser on top of a 2000 Volvo wagon. Thule roof racks, bar pads and ratchet straps and that rig can go anywhere.

I agree with Perfection for those who don't have the ability to apply by spray gun. But for those of us who do, I think Awlgrip is still the best.

David, did you find that you can do the entire hull with just one quart, or did you need more than that?

Awlgrip was my guess. Great job. I'll be Awlgripping my 13' Whaler chase boat and another Laser I've been restoring shortly.

That does seem outrageous for a hole that small. Other than matching the gelcoat that is a very basic fix.

Great looking boat, David. What kind of paint did you use and how was it applied?

Stewart, your mainsheet is was short. The reccomended length is 46 ft or more like 14 meters. When sailing by the lee, you want to see the leach of your sail flickering and remember to sail big angles. I usually sail by the lee way to the inside about half way down the course and gybe and...

What John said is just about right. I use a larger, more like 3", diameter tube and first fold the top of the sail down to the upper batten pocket. This way you won't have to start rolling the sail at the head where it is reiforced and harder to roll. After that little fold, roll away!