When do you...?

powergroove

Member
Do I go ahead and reinforce the mast step on a 73 hull before it breaks, or if the hull seems solid, do I chance it? Ive had one break before and do not want to pay for a repair kit.
 
You answered your own question.

It's so much easier to reinforce the tube when it's still in one piece.
 
I would say you could put in inspection port in(put it over where a mast step replacement kit would go..just in case you have to use one some time) reinforce the mast step really good, and then you can also dry out the hull more with the inspections port.
 
If the base plate looks good, can I just wrap soe glass around it, or do I need to grind the old one away and start from scatch?
also, if the tube is worn at the bottom, can I just pour some resin in there to build it back up?
 
If the base plate looks good, can I just wrap soe glass around it, or do I need to grind the old one away and start from scatch?
also, if the tube is worn at the bottom, can I just pour some resin in there to build it back up?

If it's in decent condition (no rot in the plywood, and the filler relatively intact), then cleaning up the surface (light sanding) and glassing over it will do the job. I've done that do a couple of mid 70's boats and 10-15 years later they are still solid

Also yes on the worn tube (on the inside) - pour some resin. Ideally, drop the SS disk in as well for a perm fix once it's waterproof (or you can repour the resin in another 3-5 years depending on use)
 
Today I got the boat in the water for the 1st time. It didnt leak, all the new controls worked flawlessly(except the lenght of my Outhaul line, which was a quick fix by adjusting the knot and therefore the length of the line.
After not sailing the Laser for 2 years, my 2nd roll tack ended in a capsize in 61 degree water, woke me up quick.
Here are my observations about everything this project has brought me.
1. Intensity sails dleivers quick, inexpensive stuff. I ordered 3 things in one day, Intensity got here 2 days before the other competitors(they shipped the the same day, and it was the largest order). Im also happy with the "practice sail" I bought from them. It came with 2 sail bags for rolling or flaking, numbers, battens, clewstrap, and telltales. Not bad for 189$. Thes sail looked nice, good shape, well made.
2 The 73 hull bothered me since I have had 1 of my other Lasers mast box blew up. So I cut a hole in the hull and glassed in the mast box, which looked okay to begin with. Also, everytime I rolled the boat over while I was working on it, the foam inside would shift and it sounded solid, like it was waterlogged. So I cut another hole...I Know, I know, and removed it. It wasnt waterlogged but it was HUGE and kinda heavy. Probably a waste, and the extra hole doesnt help.
3 The new bailer confused me a little, and I think Im missing the bushing where the rubber stopper fits in. Do I need it? How much water in the cockpit in light air is normal?
4. I Have a little weatherhelm, is that normal, or should it be perfectly neutral?
5 Whats the secret on rope management in the cockpit when youre sheeted in? Its a spaghetti factory...
6 Is there a rule on how many or material used in keeping the main snugged up to the boom? My LJ got hooked on the mainsheet, not good.

Okay, thats all my rambling for now
 
3 The new bailer confused me a little, and I think Im missing the bushing where the rubber stopper fits in. Do I need it? How much water in the cockpit in light air is normal?
4. I Have a little weatherhelm, is that normal, or should it be perfectly neutral?
5 Whats the secret on rope management in the cockpit when youre sheeted in? Its a spaghetti factory...
6 Is there a rule on how many or material used in keeping the main snugged up to the boom? My LJ got hooked on the mainsheet, not good.

3. Yes, you should have the bushing. If it's a 73, I don't think they used any, 74 or 75 they started using a plastic bushing and now they have a much more substantial brass bushing that does a good job of stopping leaks and holding the hull/deck pieces together. The cockpit should be dry, (It should not leak, either into the cockpit or into the hull, which it will do without the bushing).
4. Yes that's normal. The more heel, the more helm.
5. Mainsheet - it's a mind over matter thing -most just ignore it. At the start of a windward leg will kick the mess either to the front or rear of the cockpit and go from there. As long as your mainsheet doesn't knot itself up during the upwind leg, it all works out, and you can kick off a loop around your foot when you tack w/o much fuss. Control lines should be short enough so that they don't end up in the bottom of the cockpit
6. Yes, only one strap is allowed - see the rules. If it's still getting hung up in your lj, throw a tight shirt over the lj and/or do a few tacks in slow mo to see if there is something in your technique that is adding to the catch..
 
Thanks, good advice.

I did have a leak between the hull at the "missing bushing" on my other old hull, but this time I mixed up some thickened West System and smeared it all around the hole and the saran wrapped the bung and shoved it in there. It was pretty smooth after it dried, but I think the bushing will still help.

If the mainsheet can have only one retainer on the boom, can the outhaul have 1 too? I think I saw a piece of line tied around a boom on someones boat for this purpose. I used some electrical tape, am I ging to be banned from Laser sailing for cheating?
 

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