Bailer -- Can I hybridize? JUST PLUG?

Hello again,

I have just acquired a 1973 Sunfish and it has an aluminum bailer (I guess). Aluminum housing on the hull, a hair cockeyed, but screwed in?
There is NO ball. There is No cap and No plug.

I might sound like someone who has a clue about the bailers and how they work. I don't, but can only guess what isn't stated in the many vendor and forum links. The plug and the cap confound me. I guess you UNPLUG/ or uncap it when your actively underway, and water flushed out of the cockpit?

Can I mix the plastic bailer cap and plug and ?ball and (Do I NEED the O-ring?) with the older aluminum bailer? Should I just use an extra large bottle stopper to plug it while still in the water?

If I spend the ~ $47 - $50 for the new plastic bailer (I guess that is all that is offered nowadays), will it fit the 1973 Hull geometry? Do I need to jury rig it somehow to get it to fit? I am mentally weak, so I hope there is a simple answer besides a bleach bottle bailer.

I wouldn't mind the work, it's the 3-D stuff that's challenging without detailed directions and images. Also, it's been hotter and muggier in New England than even alligators have the stomach for. If it's not RAINING, it's HOT and muggy and skin sticks while moving. Hard to work on a sailboat or even pick rhubarb. IT's not the elbow grease, it's the ugly broken climate control.

This is a wonderful resource and I love the input, feedback and exchange.

Petrel

Petrel,

I have a 73 sunfish and replaced the aluminum bailer last year with the plastic bailer. Yes, the plactic bailer fit my hull just fine.

Removing the aluminum bailer was a challenge. The nut on the top of the bailer assembly, that holds the bailer to the boat was fused to the shaft of the bailer. I tried to uncrew it but there was no way I could get that nut to loosen up and unscrew. I used a dremel tool with several cutoff blades and cut it off. Then I was able to add the plactic bailer.

I dont know where you are located but there is a secret marina in RI that would sell you the bailer for 32dollars. I will pass on the information if you need it.

Since from what I can see in the thumbnail the upper threaded section that hold the cap and has holes is gone you can do what a lot of folks do with the new bailer and use a rubber stopper and string attached to the boat.
As for replacing yes the new bailer uses the same hole size and hull thickness.
Remember the bailer only really work on a reach or run, not up wind. Upwind it pay to keep it closed.

If you do replace your bailer with the new plastic one, you have one option that can save you headaches down the road. The new bailer comes with a rubber "O" ring that goes against the hull. Unfortunately it makes the bailer sit about 1/16" away from the hull and makes a fantastic weed catcher. If you replace the "O" ring with a bead of 100% silicone caulk, the bailer will sit flush to the hull and not pick up weeds as well as creating less drag.

Scott
Thanks for the tip. My bailer instructions said I could pt the o-ring in the cockpit or on the hull. I went for the hull location thinking that was the best location to keep water out but wasn't thinking at all about weeds catching on that slight gap. Our lake weeds up about now thorough August. I'll check for weeds after racing when I put my fish on it's boat lift.
Might be moving that o-ring to the cockpit side of the tub and using 3M 5200 on the bailer at the hull.

Scott said:

If you do replace your bailer with the new plastic one, you have one option that can save you headaches down the road. The new bailer comes with a rubber "O" ring that goes against the hull. Unfortunately it makes the bailer sit about 1/16" away from the hull and makes a fantastic weed catcher. If you replace the "O" ring with a bead of 100% silicone caulk, the bailer will sit flush to the hull and not pick up weeds as well as creating less drag.

Click to expand...

Thanks, everyone for your helpful responses.
Offramp: That’s good to know. I think I remember reading about the frozen bailer nut situation. This fastening nut is seen from the cockpit side, correct? I may try first to sail the SF with just a plug in the hole, but I think I recall reading that the cockpit can fill up quickly

AJC6882: I am in north Central MA, but $32 for a new bailer, sounds better than the going rate of (what is it ~ $47?).

Mike4947: funny how even though I think I resize photos and the compression looks fine in Photoshop, after it gets published, it gets that cell phone photo look to it. There IS a threaded part, and I can see it looking down into the pipe like thing that sticks up a bit beyond that 6-sided nut (I guess that’s the nut holding the bailer on). I think I will try the rubber stopper with the strings (you know you collect old boats when you can’t pass up a store bin of assorted rubber stoppers). But if the threaded part is there (I see threads <and dead boats>), might I just buy the bailer stopper and cap sections? Maybe it’s not worth it. Yes, I figured the bailer would only work on a reach, else…glug. The BALL is gone, so I hope it will still let water out without having double the water come back in at me.

Scott: Thanks for mentioning the O-ring weed catching space. The bailer that’s on their now (aluminum) is set a bit cockeyed and leaves this large space (just a forth reason to get a new bailer). Adhesive: Is the 3M 4200 better since (I gather) it’s not as permanent? What about regular bathroom/tub/sink caulking (already have some).

Thanks again, folks.

I just used 100% clear silicone caulk between the bailer and the hull. It's lasted 9 years and still holding. When I put it on, I taped the bailer where I wanted it, then masked the outline of it so the caulk that oozes doesn't get on the hull. That also gives you an idea where to keep it as it slips around when screwing the other side on. It's probably easier to have two people do it, but I did it myself by propping the boat up on the starboard edge so I could reach both sides at the same time.

Good luck!