Re-rigging my boat... Buy from Whom??

Mudi 08757

Member
I need to re-rig my boat, starting with the lines. I have a mis-mash of original and replaced lines on my boat now.. Many of them in poor shape. I think the mainsheet spent a winter holding the kids play fort down against the wind.. I don't have any of the pro kit parts, just standard old 1973 issue laser setup. :confused:

Someone, help me and point me in the best direction, lowest cost, best bang for the buck.. I might get one race in per season up here in the Northern Rocky's, otherwise I'm just sailing in whatever conditions present themselves to me..

Anyone selling some used but well loved rigging?? I might be interested..
 
thanks guys...

The Rooster mainsheet shows 7mm, it that the true width.. Comparing to what I have on the boat now at 12mm, seems awfully thin.. Like all the new vang and cunnigham stuff... I apprciate the links..

Got my one and only inspection port open last night. The boat hasn't been sailed since the 6th of July and it's been really hot here. The drain plug has been out the whole time, and I would have thought that any H20 in the hull would have baked out by now, but it was wet inside.. The Positive Flotation in front of the board box appears drenched..

Time to pull that out and replace with the cubitainers???
 
Re: thanks guys...

The Positive Flotation in front of the board box appears drenched..

Time to pull that out and replace with the cubitainers???

The drain plug is an awfully small orifice for evaporation.

here are some things that have worked in the past
possible option 1

weigh it first...
put the output end of a shop vac in the inspection port hole.
snake it back into the hull so you create some circulation.
turn it on & let her go for a lengthy bit if time.
it will dry out... eventually.
weigh it again.

possible option 2
since you are in the rockies...
relatively low humidity there.
leave the inspection port open.
leave it in the sun.
it will dry out... eventually.

Possible option 3
combine options 1 & 2

these are relatively safe diets that should help your laser dry out...
otherwise maybe there are weekend rates at the Betty Ford Clinic? :)

cheers
 
Re: thanks guys...

The Rooster mainsheet shows 7mm, it that the true width..

of course it's true, they have no need to lie

smaller the better

can't imagine how heavy 12mm gets when its wet, thats huge!
 
I guess you haven't been around this game that long... 12 mm marstron used to be the norm... as little as 10 years ago.
 
7 years my friend, as long as Rooster mainsheets have been around at least
 
I guess you haven't been around this game that long... 12 mm marstron used to be the norm... as little as 10 years ago.

Back in the early 80's we used 1/4 or 5/16 (8mm) marston in Lasers and 5/16 or 3/8 (10mm) in the Finn... I've never seen anyone use 12mm (1/2") for any type of sheet even on big boats. I don't even think it will run thru a Laser block :confused:
 
YEAH, I've actually been laughing to my self about this all day..

I'm guessing I put the 12mm on it back about 1979 or so.. Yes, it barely fits though the system..

We also had our Ensign at the time, so I might have just borrowed it from leftover... Who knows.. Thinking about it, laughing about it, the 12mm is awfully big and heavy.. Kinda the equivalent of running old bias ply 70 series tires on my Vintage 911 vs some new 50 series Victoracers....

Suppose the New Old Sail isn't so good anymore either... Ah the joys of getting back into something 25 years down the road..
 
Boat Weight..

Roshambo, thanks for the drying out tips. The grand experiment in drying out this old boat starts tomorrow..

I've got a large platform scale at work that measures in 1 lb increments that I can walk or roll the boat onto with some help.. Will be interesting to see how heavy it is... I'll go from there in trying to dry it out..

Hull 80757 an 04/73 PSC manufactured boat has always been in the family and stored outside.. I hang it upside down under my deck in the winter, but it suffered through many a winter just sitting on the trailer...

Just for fun, I'm chasing down another early boat owned by an elderly woman rancher since 1975... She used to sail it on a small irrigation lake on her property.. Lot's of history there I'm sure.. She was 95 when she passed away this spring...
 
Missed all those clues earlier - if your seeing foam blocks , the sail # is 8757, which makes sense with the 04/73 serial #

If the foam is wet, it's going to take a really long time to dry it out (ie months), even in a climate controlled environment. It's fairly common to break up the foam, remove it thru an inspection port or two and replace it with cubitainers.
 
Yeah, its an oldy....

I wanted to be a pain as a teen and put the 0 infront of the 8757 on the sail, as that is what is on the hull... pissed some race judges off in MN years ago...

I miss typed the number in my last message above, the Hull number is 08757 not 80757
 
Boat Weight...

I got the boat off the trailer and onto the scale..

She weighs in at 154 pounds on a certified large capacity scale.. That's with only the ratchet block, hiking strap, a short bow line and the traveler...

How much would two paints jobs (hull only) weigh??? How much is the weekend rate at Weight Watchers???

If i was really serious about weight, I could work on my own physical stature as it would be easier to loose 10% of my excess poundage than get the 20% I need to get off this boat...
 

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Thanks for the offers on used the Pro kits.. At this point it would be overkill for me to put that stuff on this boat...
 
Mudi,

If you have a block of wet foam in there, then I think you can easily drop 10 lbs from this weight. I can not recall the actual size of the blocks, but it is well and truly soaked, then I think you can really reduce that weight.

Careful using a shop vac - you can put a HUGE amount of pressure on the boat if you are not careful. have blown a deck of an old training Echo we had at the local club that way!

I usually leave a dry sponge in my boat after every sail. Tie it on the end of a string (so you don't lose it) and then lift the bow up and down. It will help speed up the process if there is more than dampness in there.

Over the winter, try to get it inside. Your living room may work - mine did till my mum got home!

M
 
thanks, I appreciate the tips.. I'm going to start blowing into it a few hours each night and see what happens.. Easy enough to get it off the trailer and reweigh..

I've attached a shot of the foam in torn bag located ahead of the blade box and behind the mast step.. Also a shot of the worn but possibly not leaking too bad mast step.. There is also a loose foam block in there, it doesn't feel wet at all.
 

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No use worrying about drying it out for now.. I just put two Quarts of water down the mast step and watched it run right out into the hull in less than 10 seconds..

I doesn't flow out directly at the bottom, but about 1/4 inch up. I'm guessing the step is worn about where the mast plug interface is located.

Mast step replacement time... Or, can I reglass it in the boat?? the step is sound, hasn't cracked the deck or pulled loose.. See attached, just some crazing type cracks in the gelcoat..

Or, do I have to do the whole thing to be on the safe side???
 

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Start by measuring the distance from the bottom of the existing mast hole to the deck. Hopefully it's something more then 14"... You can pour a new base fairly easily to bring it back to 14" which will prob seal the leak. If it's measuring around 14" now, then you have a crack in the tube itself, which is easily fixed by wrapping a layer or two of fiberglass around the outside of the tube

The cracks in the deck area don't look too severe, if you really want to make sure everything is rock solid, put an inspection port in, check the bottom of the mast tube/plywood base/donut and make sure that is solid and add a layer or two of fiberglass mat around the top of the tube and extend out onto the underside of the deck...

Search the threads here on Mast Step Repair - you'll find lots of good info
 
thanks 49208, that's the single most relavant piece of information I've gotten yet.. In fact it is 14.5 inches deep from deck to bottom of the step, so it is pretty worn indeed if 14 is the original spec.

Also, I just got done reading a bunch of the old posts on mast steps and leaks.. Sorry to bore anyone.. I'll quit posting so much and search more...
 
It's in our warehouse at work. Designed to weigh large capacity containers before being placed on aircraft. Overkill for my location, but somebody knew better than me that I'd need it for weighing the Laser someday..
 
Have read a lot about cutting the deck up to fix the mast base - but is it feasible (and simpler) to attack it from the keel line or nottom of the boat?
 

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