Crack in cockpit

Merrily

Merrily

Administrator
There's a 4-5 inch crack in my new to me boat. It flexes on either side, and yes, you could stick a knife in it. I'm thinking I could just grind out the surrounding gel coat and glass it over. If I wanted to make it really pretty, I think I'd have to cut a hole, but I don't like that idea at all. I'd like a nice finish on it. What are my options?
 
Where in the cockpit is it ? (Pics would help)

My older boat has stress cracks all over the floor - middle, along the edges etc. Surprisingly non leak, so I haven't bothered to do anything with them. They have been there for 10 years. The floor does get softer over time as the glass is slowly getting brittle and cracking.

If it leaks, then you need to build the strength back up with fiberglass. That will mean a fair amount of grinding so that you can get at least a couple layers of mat in there if you want it reasonably good looking (if you don't care, just rough up the gel coat and put a couple layers over it, paint it and go sailing)
 
Here's a couple of pix. The crack is on the sidewall near the back of the cockpit and runs parallel to a fore/aft midline (front to back). I drew a line where the crack is in the first picture because it didn't show up.
 

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Stop sailing with steel toe shoes :D

If it were me, I would grind the gel coat off at least 1 inch all around, stop and see if the crack keeps going into the glass or not. If not, re-fill with gel-coat or thickened epoxy and you're done.

If the crack is deep into the glass, I would grind further out, looking for two inches all around and deeper where it's cracked so I could get two layers of mat in there, then cover with gel or thickened epoxy (white marine tex wouldn't be that noticable here - or just paint it for the true quick and dirty repair).
 
49208 said:
Stop sailing with steel toe shoes :D

If it were me, I would grind the gel coat off at least 1 inch all around, stop and see if the crack keeps going into the glass or not. If not, re-fill with gel-coat or thickened epoxy and you're done.

If the crack is deep into the glass, I would grind further out, looking for two inches all around and deeper where it's cracked so I could get two layers of mat in there, then cover with gel or thickened epoxy (white marine tex wouldn't be that noticable here - or just paint it for the true quick and dirty repair).
Click to expand...

Must have been the pointy-toed kitten heels.

I'm pretty sure it goes all the way through the glass, as I can make it flex by touching one side or the other of the crack. So you are saying grind a total of 4 inches wide, 2 inches on either side of the crack?
 
Yes, 2 inches either side total of 4 (on the bottom you just need to get into the curved area of the bottom/sidewall junction which is usually very stiff)

That's MHO. Al, Fred and others may have more expierence with this type of crack and have better suggestions
 
Hi Janet,

I don't know about better, but here's another idea.

I'd put a port on the transome deck, a little off center on that side. Then you can reach in, rough sand, and put 2-3 layers of glass over that spot, letting them set up for an hour or so between layers. Have the boat on edge so gravity helps you. Then the inside becomes a rather simple gel coat patch, with the boat on the other edge. Of course, it must be DRY before you glass.

The port is then useful for other thru bolt jobs, etc.

This was probably caused by ice forming in the cockpit.

Al Russell 182797
 
vtgent49 said:
...
I'd put a port on the transome deck, a little off center on that side. Then you can reach in, rough sand, and put 2-3 layers of glass over that spot, letting them set up for an hour or so between layers. Have the boat on edge so gravity helps you. Then the inside becomes a rather simple gel coat patch, with the boat on the other edge. Of course, it must be DRY before you glass.

The port is then useful for other thru bolt jobs, etc. ...
Click to expand...

Hi Janet,
Al describes exact the way I would prefer, too. I already have done this, too and you probably have forgotten about the emails with photos about this repair, I did post you about, exact a year ago. The crack in the cockpit wall at my Laser has been at the port side at the front cockpit wall. A bit luck I had. There already is an inspection port in the neighborhood of the centreboard trunk at my Laser. So, the repair has been very easy (again: exact as Al already decribed above). I took two layers of fibre-glass and 2-component-Epoxy-resin (a cheap small-repair-kit for cars from the local Home Depot). Keep care, you do eliminate all the air-bubbles that perhaps do come into the layers of glued fibre-glass. The repaired, former damaged area at my Laser holds durable know, although there are several air-bubbles inside of the glued fibre-glass.

vtgent49 said:
...This was probably caused by ice forming in the cockpit. ...
Click to expand...

Or: like 49208 it already said: The leg of the helmsman/-woman did stamped to strong the to that area of the cockpit, during a quick sailing-maneuver in heavy winds (This has been the reason, why the cockpit wall of my Laser broke).

Good work and aft that, you perhaps are able to join the company of the gouv and open an own franchising-store at C./OH... ;)




Ciao
LooserLu
 
I agree that if you don't mind putting in an inspection port, the job will be easier and the fix most likely stronger. I was a little confused by your wording in your first post, I think I took:
"I think I'd have to cut a hole, but I don't like that idea at all."
to mean you were adverse to putting in a port. If you're not, that's the way I would go too.
 
vtgent49 said:
Hi Janet,

I'd put a port on the transome deck, a little off center on that side.


Al Russell 182797
Click to expand...

The transom deck? Do you mean on the rear deck of the boat, behind the cockpit, but not in it, right?
 
OK, thanks Greg, Al, and Lu. I've ordered an inspection port from APS. I don't mind putting one of those in because I'm not doing the work! John will do it, now that he's accomplished one for storage on 177349.
 
Janet,
I'm not sure if the inspectionports of APS (perhaps eqal to such as we get here in Europe from "RWO"?) do need the so called rubber-rings, to "chaulk" the cap of the inspection port to the ring of the inspection port. If they need this ring, make sure, that APS do deliver such a ring with the inspection port that you have ordered. :)
Good work
LooserLu
 
LooserLu said:
Janet,
I'm not sure if the inspectionports of APS (perhaps eqal to such as we get here in Europe from "RWO"?) do need the so called rubber-rings, to "chaulk" the cap of the inspection port to the ring of the inspection port. If they need this ring, make sure, that APS do deliver such a ring with the inspection port that you have ordered. :)
Good work
LooserLu
Click to expand...

APS's Viking brand inspection ports do come with the O ring, as we found out when installing the last one. Thanks.
 
OK, APS and UPS came through for us in a hurry. We have the inpection port and "we" are cutting the hole today. Just to be sure, how far off the centerline is "off the centerline" ?
 
I just don't like being on centerline, because this isn't really flat. So, in general I mean no part of the rim touches centerline.

You may want to go further toward the side so that you can reach the patch area. I'd balance that need with some future need to put nuts on other parts, like the gudgeons or hiking strap eyes.

I'd sand the cut, then put two coats of WEST on, to seal and soften the edge. This helps to keep the glass from chewing on your arm. Duct tape on the cut edge while you are working might save some skin.

Al
 
First thought...

If it does not leak, it probably does not need to be fixed.
The crack could be just in the gelcoat or a top layer of the glass itself.

If it leaks, I agree with putting some glass on the back side of the crack, hte inspection port and all that stuff.

The only way to make the crack disappear short term is to glass both sides and re do the gelcoat. Of course the gelcoat will weather at a different pace and the repair splotch will eventually become visible again.

So...Unless the crack leaks or grows more ..and leaks, I would just go sailing.
 
gouvernail said:
If it does not leak, it probably does not need to be fixed.
The crack could be just in the gelcoat or a top layer of the glass itself.

If it leaks, I agree with putting some glass on the back side of the crack, hte inspection port and all that stuff.

The only way to make the crack disappear short term is to glass both sides and re do the gelcoat. Of course the gelcoat will weather at a different pace and the repair splotch will eventually become visible again.

So...Unless the crack leaks or grows more ..and leaks, I would just go sailing.
Click to expand...

We've already cut the inspection port, and I could feel the crack on the inside of the hull. It was growing.

What do you mean, make the crack disappear short term?

Is it necessary to glass both sides to permanently repair this problem?

I've got two layers of glass on the inside, but wasn't planning on glassing the outside. Should I do a third layer? Do I really need to glass the outside, and if so, how do I make the gelcoat look good with layers of glass there?
 
Re: Crackpot in cockpit

Al is the man so ask him he has mucho experience and if doesn't know will steer you in the right direction.
 
Re: Crackpot in cockpit

Gouvernail is also the man. He has a boat fiberglass repair business. I just want a little clarification.
 
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