Mast / Deck cleat repair

pointbreak

New Member
Hi all,

I recently purchased a used sunfish boat (picture attached). I've had a fantastic time sailing it however last weekend it was pretty windy at the lake and the mast snapped right where it enters the boat. Basically the mast is now 1ft shorter than it was before.

Additionally since I had a friend attach a rope to the deck (halyard) cleat with a rope and try to tow me back into shore it ripped out of the deck.

I was hoping to draw on the knowledge of you guys and hopefully suggest a cost effective and quick way for me to get out on the water (safely).

More specifically, do I need to repair the mast or can I just use it as is even though it will be slightly shorter?

If I do need to repair it (or replace it) what is the easiest way to go about this (zero boat repair experience)

Also seeing as the deck cleat was lost in the water, how should I go about purchasing a new one and how do I install it (do I just screw it on?).

Thanks in advance for any assistance and just to give some context to the situation I've only paid $300 for the boat so I don't want to invest much more and I've only sailed a few times in my life.

Chris
 

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Short mast means you'll have major issues with the boom hitting you as it comes across the boat. You need to repair or replace it.

I kind of expect the mast to be corroded inside and weakened. That means finding a replacement tube.
Take the old tube to a good metal supplier and they can get you new tube cheaper than the shipping for ordering a mast. Then just get the caps.
Parts & Sails for The Sunfish®

Deck repair depends how bad it is.
 
Short mast means you'll have major issues with the boom hitting you as it comes across the boat. You need to repair or replace it.

I hate to disagree, but there is no reason at all to replace the mast. Simply take the cap off the small piece that is left, and put it in the bottom of the long piece. You may need to file or grind the long section so the bottom is flat, but you MUST have that cap on the bottom of the mast before you use it. Then, just slide the halyard about a foot down the upper spar. Now when you hoist the sail it'll be the right height. Mast length isn't critical - when the Sunfish got designed they just happened to pick that length.

The cleat may be harder. It may be possible to be sure everything is dry, then buy some Marine Tex (it's about $25 but this stuff is worth it) and jam as much as you can into the holes. When it's hard, drill new screw holes and screw in a new cleat with good thick stainless steel screws.
 
I stayed in, as it was super-windy at our lake last weekend as well. Are you likewise located in New Hampshire?

I've got a repaired mast advertised here. (which was also snapped—and have a few new masts which are not subject to exorbitant freight costs—if you pick them up). Swap out the plastic end(s) or drill for the pulley (block) at the top. My price for one new mast is the same as the lowest price you'll find on the Internet—click on the blue URL below:
Sunfish Mast, Repaired from a fracture... | SailingForums.com

If not, go to a muffler repair shop and ask for an approximately 18-inch tailpipe scrap that fits inside. (I used Meineke, whose manager happily obliged with a free scrap). Use the search function for Meineke—click on the blue URL below:
Search Results for Query: meineke | SailingForums.com

Repair also described here—click on the blue URL below:
Sunfish mast | Page 2 | SailingForums.com

They'll also have stainless steel scraps, which would be ideal. These scraps are heavy—but tough. So, using the tailpipe as a mandrel, hammer the mast ends so the tailpipe fits inside, then use a 1/8th" drill bit, drill four holes, orient the two pieces so they make a straight mast, and pop-rivet the whole works together. It's not going to break at that point, ever again! :cool: If you're not "handy" with tools, the muffler shop might oblige with this repair—but charge a fee. (Or not—have a girlfriend ask for you). ;) Use bath tub sealer to make the mast watertight. Silicone-sealer is available in an aluminum color. :oops:

The cleat is made of bronze, and is available from many sources on the Internet. Although Google's "image" offerings change every day, try (copy) "closed-base", "bronze", "cleat" and try eBay first—click on the blue URL below:
Solid Bronze Cleat,. just over 4 1/2
West Marine has them at less than $10 which, especially for there, may be their best bargain! :rolleyes:
bronze boat cleats - Google Search

Or, I'll mail you one of my stock bronze spares $8 plus postage (or, if local, pick it up).

If the cleat pulled out, drill new holes for the replacement cleat next to (or over) the "ripped" holes, and seal the "ripped" holes. A new 90°orientation won't hurt a thing. If it didn't fall away inside, there should be wood block remaining underneath that can take a 1¼-inch screw, so use the longest and thickest screws that will fit. (#8 is stock).

I learned from a borrowed Sunfish—and since then—don't recommend a large cleat, as the spars can tangle with the horns, and damage both! :eek:
 
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Sell the shorter mast as a MiniFish mast. Use the money towards a new Sunfish mast. If you go elsewhere for tubing, make sure it's anodized.
 
If you're good, get some old mast material, and make an internal compression sleeve + missing mast section. It will never break again!
 
Assuming the height of the lower spar is maintained constant, varying the length of the mast moves the entire sail forward for a longer mast and aft for a shorter one. I doubt a one foot difference makes much, if any difference, but I'm curious as to how the sailing qualities would change if the sail were moved more significantly fore or aft.
 
Assuming the height of the lower spar is maintained constant, varying the length of the mast moves the entire sail forward for a longer mast and aft for a shorter one. I doubt a one foot difference makes much, if any difference, but I'm curious as to how the sailing qualities would change if the sail were moved more significantly fore or aft.
That is why racers have adjustable goosenecks - the draft moves as the wind picks up, and the C/E moves. If the gooseneck is too far fwd, the C/E is too far back and you get weather helm, and if the C/E is too far fwd you get lee helm. The one foot mast difference makes little difference and could be compensated for by moving the gooseneck back if needed. The short mast is the same as having a Jens rig in all the time, which is not a bad thing for recreational sailing (Jens is too complicated for rec sailing, but having an automatic Jens is as with a short mast is simple and helps depower a bit when it is windy.)
 
Could it be said the jens rig depowers MAINLY bevause you're decreasing tbe overall sail height, decreasing healing forces. You're certainly not reefing or the like
 
If you're good, get some old mast material, and make an internal compression sleeve + missing mast section. It will never break again!
He's got about one foot of old mast material--now! :D

Somebody who's better at math can figure out exactly how much material to "slice" lengthwise out of that piece. I'd cut 2" out, and compress it to a "slip-fit" inside the "new and shorter" mast. Use a squared off punch to drive it to the desired location, then pop-rivet it in place. :cool:
 

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