1984 Capri 14.2 Cuddy door dimensions

tw30189

New Member
Hi, I have a new (for us) 1984 Capri - the cuddy door, which I don't know that is original, crumbled.
I thought if I told Catalina if I had a 1984 they could make me a new door out of teak. Once they saw the picture of the old door they said they did not have the dimensions....I think they were going by the picture of the door,which again may not have been the original

Bottom-line question is, does anyone know what dimensions I should ask for? Roughly, I think the outer edge of the opening is 18" W and 12" H but the bottom is curved on the corners and I don't know if any more needs to be added to the dimensions or if they are the correct ones to provide.

Thank you
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I cannot help with the dimensions but can offer an approach. When making a door for an opening of this nature I start with a piece of cardboard. I cut the cardboard to shape until it fits the opening to my satisfaction and then transfer/trace the shape onto the finish material for the door. In your case you could send the pattern to any good wood worker and they could build the actual door.

When making patterns like the one needed for your project the most common problem people come up against is the rounded corners. First determine the radius of the arc in the corner and then transfer that to the pattern using a compass. The radius can be determined by measuring from the bottom of the opening straight up to the point where the arc ends on the vertical edge of the opening. It is good to use a level or straight edge for this step. Sometime it is useful to use a small scrap piece of cardboard to refine your arc just in case you miscalculated something. Once you are satisfied with the fit simply transfer the arc to the pattern. Once you get the hang of it the remaining corners will be a piece of cake. In fact, after you have made a few doors you will probably skip the cardboard and go directly to laying out the demolitions on the piece of wood you will use for the final piece.

I suspect a piece of half inch teak veneer marine plywood would be a good choice for the door.

Good luck.
 
Thank you, Boat!

I really appreciate your detailed, yet easy to follow steps. I even understand measuring the radius along the edge - finally putting my geometry lessons to good use!

I am sure your guidance will be helpful to many - again, thank you very much for taking the time to respond.

Tim
 
Hello Greg,

Recently joining this community, I am quickly learning of the support and help given so graciously among the members.

Thank you so much for your kind offer. I already, though, followed the earlier guidance from Boat and have a template that fits well. I will just go ahead and cut my own door for this July 4 weekend ( I just bought a halyard bag and need to hang it somewhere).

I hope you have a wonderful holiday weekend.

Tim
 
Probably too late to do any good but I ran across an old cad drawing I did back in 1992 that provided a pretty close fit for my Capri. As I recall I used the dimensions as is and it worked out just fine. If you choose to use this drawing be sure to first cut out a cardboard pattern to make sure the dimensions will work for your project. My memory may have faded over the past 24 years...
 

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Hi boat,

I had overlooked seeing this response - I am sure I will have a need to make replacement doors in the future and so this wonderful drawing I know will be helpful - and I am sure now being out on the Internet, along with your earlier instructions, which I followed, will be helpful to others.

Thanks again.

Tim
 
Hello Tim, I am also in the process of fitting a door to my 1993 Mod 2. in place of the original stowage cuddy which seals the opening when installed. I decided to remove the cuddy to gain access to the huge stowage space below. I want to be able to see inside without having to remove the door so I made out of quarter inch thick Plexiglass. My next project is deciding how to keep it in place without using hinges as I want to be able to remove it completely for better access when stowing and removing items.
How do you plan on attaching your door?
 
Hi woodbark,

I intended to take a picture of the latch I used - from the previous hatch door (which I don't know was original). The one I have is very old and even looks as if it was home-made. I could not find anything at Home Depot to replace it so I just used the old one. It serves the purpose of keeping the hatch secured, though far from being water tight. Upon receiving your question, I looked on the Internet and I believe its simply called a Hatch Latch and I easily found several options, example here https://www.google.com/search?q="hatch+latch"+marine&oq="hatch+latch"+marine&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.14926j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Just search for "Hatch Latch" Marine and I think you will easily find options. The handle is on the front. On the back, as you turn the handle, a small bar rotates ( slides) over the edge of the hatch opening and secures the hatch door. Mine has a spring ( like those in a pen), that goes over the bolt that goes through the door and seems to help keep the latch hardware from being loose. If you want to make a water-tight compartment you may need two latches ( one for opposite sides) or there may be other options altogether from Catalina.

Hope this helps.

Tim
 
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Thanks Tim, great link to get me going ;)

Latch2-capri.jpg
I will be making the latch from scratch so a few good ideas will certainly save on trial and error. It will most likely be a modified version of this one.
 
The latch on my cubby door is one that will tighten as the release knob is turned. This allows the door to seal against the rubber attached to the fiberglass around the cubby opening. The door is not hinged but rather slips into a groove at the top of the opening. I found it necessary to shim the door on the top to make it better contact the rubber seal. If this is not clear just ask and I can provide a better description and perhaps pictures.
 
The latch on my cubby door is one that will tighten as the release knob is turned. This allows the door to seal against the rubber attached to the fiberglass around the cubby opening. The door is not hinged but rather slips into a groove at the top of the opening. I found it necessary to shim the door on the top to make it better contact the rubber seal. If this is not clear just ask and I can provide a better description and perhaps pictures.

The adjustable latch is also what I am planning on using but it will be a cam style lever that will pull in an additional few mm against the seal. All this water tightness is probably not necessary since the water just barely gets to about 6 inches up the sides on a capsize but it should be rain proof if the boat will be docked in water.
 
Breathing life into this old thread. I must be over thinking this or missing something.
I have been trying to find a hatch latch that will engage with the fiberglass behind the rubber gasket to do as the previous posters suggested and compress the gasket. I can’t seem to find anything that will engage with something 1/2” behind the front surface of the hatch door. What am I missing? I have looked at cam latches and slam latches, but nothing will engage without some type of modification behind the opening. I am going to remake the hatch door to the dimensions of this old one, but made out of a 1/2” thick cutting board. This one won’t hold the hatch panel tight and I don’t think the paper clip “key” will hold out much longer.
 

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