Question: Best Way To Seal Coaming/Splashguard

Been restoring a fairly neglected Sunfish (her new name is "The Betty") with current emphasis on eliminating the last few leaks. While my brother was sailing in the last video at Benicia, a steady supply of water was making its way to the splashguard and leaking through improperly sealed screw and bolt holes that were holding down the splashguard.

This morning I removed the splashguard... which took some doing because last time it had been mounted to the deck, someone used some pretty strong sealant under it. So strong in fact it pulled some of the glass right out of the deck. See the photo below.



I plan on drilling out then sealing the old holes with West Systems Six 10 then remounting the slashguard just a bit forward or aft of its current position (it was last mounted cockeyed... not symmetrically to the boat). I'll use rivets to remount the splashguard.

So, here are my questions.

1) What should I use to fill the low spots created by the adhesive pulling out sections of the glass on the deck? Pettit EZ Fair? The depth of glass that was removed was minor. Not very deep at all.

2) When it comes to sealing the rivet holes, what should I use as a sealant and what steps/process do you suggest? I was thinking it might go something like this. Put a blob of sealant around each hole, carefully lay the splashguard in place lined up over all the holes. Then use 3 un-riveted-rivets at the 3 "corners" to hold the splashguard in place, rivet all the other holes and finish up by doing the last 3 rivets in the corners. Something like that?

3) I'm assuming that I only need to use sealant around the holes. Ie, I don't need to run a bead of sealant along the entire length of the underside of the splashguard, correct?

4) Should I used aluminum or stainless rivets? I would assume aluminum... as there isn't the issue of strength being needed.

5) I'm going to mount the splashguard only about an inch forward or aft of its current position. Will that matter structurally? Any suggested forward or aft preferences?

Thanks,

- Andy

P.S. Here's another photo after having to re-build the bow area on The Betty (previous owners must have had a thing for ramming docks and other objects at high speed), replacing backing blocks then resealing the deck to the hull. Definitely has gone from initial annoyance at finding more stuff wrong/busted/WTF on the old girl to a labor of love. As it should be.

1) What should I use to fill the low spots created by the adhesive pulling out sections of the glass on the deck? Pettit EZ Fair? The depth of glass that was removed was minor. Not very deep at all.

On my borrowed Sunfish, I replaced a splashguard that apparently had been knocked off. Sailing without it showed me that deck strength was clearly compromised by its absence. Adhesive left behind was very tough, but I managed to chisel most of it off with a hammer and putty knife. Some fiberglass was "scarred". I then "advanced" its location by about 3/8" inch, which hid the imperfect surface. 'Drilled holes for large sheet metal screws, bonded it with sealer, and secured the screws.

2) When it comes to sealing the rivet holes, what should I use as a sealant and what steps/process do you suggest? I was thinking it might go something like this. Put a blob of sealant around each hole, carefully lay the splashguard in place lined up over all the holes. Then use 3 un-riveted-rivets at the 3 "corners" to hold the splashguard in place, rivet all the other holes and finish up by doing the last 3 rivets in the corners. Something like that?

Sounds right, except I'd use sheet metal screws, as "going up a size" to replace a damaged screw is easier than riveting larger rivets.

3) I'm assuming that I only need to use sealant around the holes. Ie, I don't need to run a bead of sealant along the entire length of the underside of the splashguard, correct?

I'd run a full length of sealant to help strengthen the deck, and relieve the connectors of localized strain.

4) Should I used aluminum or stainless rivets? I would assume aluminum... as there isn't the issue of strength being needed.

Stainless rivets require a lot of pressure to "pop", which would stress the fiberglass splashguard at each point. If you must use rivets, I'd go aluminum.

5) I'm going to mount the splashguard only about an inch forward or aft of its current position. Will that matter structurally? Any suggested forward or aft preferences?

As above, moving the splashguard a minimal amount hides deck damage, and keeps it at the location where it was designed for deck strength.

BTW: "The Betty" is the first Sunfish I've seen with three inspection ports on the deck!

Impressive repair on the damaged bow.

Thanks for your feedback L&V. Much appreciated.

Light and Variable Winds said:

BTW: "The Betty" is the first Sunfish I've seen with three inspection ports on the deck!

Click to expand...

That makes two of us! I don't know what the previous owner was thinking. And the one in the bow isn't even lined up on the centerline of the boat.

When I've got all the work done, I'm going to remove them, lay in glass where they were, fair and paint. Don't care for how inspection ports take away from the nice look of a clean Sunfish deck.

Not to mention the fact that if you leave those 3 inspection ports open and store the Sunfish in your barn for a few years, an army of rats will move in and fill your boat with rat poop... that the new owner (me) then has to blast out with a garden hose after removing their basketball sized nest from deep behind the port foam support.

Another surprise the fellow I bought the boat from sprung on me. Caveat Emptor!

- Andy

I'd use epoxy or epoxy putty because there might be intrusion into the glass there, and the deck is only about 1/8 inch. If water gets in there there could be further damage.

I'd put little fiberglass patches over the topside of the enlarged rivet holes and redrill for new aluminum rivets, sold by Sunfish Direct or Sunfishsailboats.com You have to repair that area anyway, and some of them you could do from inside as well, but you can't reach the outermost ones cuz of the foam. That will be plenty to hold on the splashguard plus some sealant. That splashguard is not structural.

Use Boat Life Life Calk or 3M4200 or any marine SEALANT, not 5200 adhesive, that will rip off gelcoat Put the sealant around the holes, put the spashguard in place and also put a little sealant on the rivet barrel before it goes in.

We had a rat boat too, the rat ran out while we were picking it up from the seller!! Dry vacced what we could then water plus wet vac. Sail it a few times before you seal those hull, some last bits will shake loose. Spaking of loose check those backer blocks, if they are punky get them replaced now. I use cypress, it is soft to drill and rot resistant. Throw epoxy on those as well.

Madison aka Ratatouille hanging out with Zip

Thanks Signal Charlie! Just the kind of details I was hoping for. Yep, those rats make life interesting. Leaks + Rat Poop + 50 tacks + some heeling on the first maiden voyage = RMT. Rat Manure Tea. Had to wear industrial strength, elbow high dish washing gloves during that bail out.

- Andy

I recently made some similar deck repairs using 2 part West gelcoat repair. It came out a little whiter than the original but close enough. Put on a little extra then sand it flush with a block and 600 paper. Some buffing compound will bring back the shine. Be carefull not to over do it with the hardener. I think it is only supposed to be a 2% ratio by weight.

In the "Now you tell me" category...

I asked our rigging guy if he used 5200, as some swear by it and some swear at it. He says sure, for the right application. As far as removal goes, he said he sprays it with 3M Adhesive Remover and lets it sit a while, it softens enough to get it off. That product works great on silicone caulk as well to clean off the last bits and to remove the residue from stick on registration numbers. To remove HINs you need a dremel or....oops, that wasn't sposed to be discussed here, just the life of being married to a Pirate Chick.

Cheers
Kent and The Skipper