Alan S. Glos
Well-Known Member
This summer I have restored a 1981 Force Five, a 1985 Laser and two mid-1980s Sunfish. The Force Five had some trailer roller damage and required a few hours of WEST epoxy work, but the other three boats were barn finds that were very dirty, stained, mildewed and, in one case, covered in lichens but virtually undamaged. The good news is that a boat that is dirty and stained (but otherwise sound) can often me purchased for cheap. The bad news is that you then have to do some serious cleaning. Here are a few techniques that work.
If you have a pressure cleaner, have at the dirty hull but don't use the most aggressive nozzle. Just try to get the worst of the dirt and gunk off. Focus on the aluminum trim to blast out debris from under the trim. Next, mix up a bucket of laundry detergent, Oxyclean and hot water and wash the entire hull using a kitchen sponge/scrubber. Rinse, then glove up, wear eye protection and coat the hull with el cheapo laundry bleach full strength. Let it sit for a few minutes (preferably in sunlight that seems to help activate the bleach) and then rinse with plenty of water. Take a step back and admire the difference. Let dry. Next, go looking for tree sap and other stuff that the washing did not remove. Use a single edge razor blade at a very low angle in a holder to carefully remove these blemishes.
Your hull will now be clean but probably oxidized from sun exposure. Suffer the sticker shock, but buy a bottle of 3-M Marine Restorer. This is a thick liquid product that contains a mildly abrasive rubbing compound and a wax. Apply as directed. Use a power buffer if you have one. As you continue to buff and polish with clean rags, the abrasive material will be removed and the wax will give you an (often) like-new appearance. Use as little of this stuff as you can as it doesn't take much. One bottle will restore two or three hulls if you are careful.
Sand rudder blades and other wood parts down to bare wood with 60 grit sandpaper and an electric palm sander. I prefer a reciprocating sander but a random orbital works well too. I used to use paint stripper but it's messy, expensive and caustic. 60 grit sandpaper is just as fast and a lot less hassle, Then go to 100 grit and finally 220 grit. Tack rag the dust off and varnish with the marine varnish of your choice sanding/steel wooling between coats. My current favorite varnish is Interlux Compass Clear. Mahogany wants 4 coats. Ash wants 3 coats.
Getting an old, neglected boat back on the water is always worthy undertaking, and these steps above can make it a fairly quick project.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
If you have a pressure cleaner, have at the dirty hull but don't use the most aggressive nozzle. Just try to get the worst of the dirt and gunk off. Focus on the aluminum trim to blast out debris from under the trim. Next, mix up a bucket of laundry detergent, Oxyclean and hot water and wash the entire hull using a kitchen sponge/scrubber. Rinse, then glove up, wear eye protection and coat the hull with el cheapo laundry bleach full strength. Let it sit for a few minutes (preferably in sunlight that seems to help activate the bleach) and then rinse with plenty of water. Take a step back and admire the difference. Let dry. Next, go looking for tree sap and other stuff that the washing did not remove. Use a single edge razor blade at a very low angle in a holder to carefully remove these blemishes.
Your hull will now be clean but probably oxidized from sun exposure. Suffer the sticker shock, but buy a bottle of 3-M Marine Restorer. This is a thick liquid product that contains a mildly abrasive rubbing compound and a wax. Apply as directed. Use a power buffer if you have one. As you continue to buff and polish with clean rags, the abrasive material will be removed and the wax will give you an (often) like-new appearance. Use as little of this stuff as you can as it doesn't take much. One bottle will restore two or three hulls if you are careful.
Sand rudder blades and other wood parts down to bare wood with 60 grit sandpaper and an electric palm sander. I prefer a reciprocating sander but a random orbital works well too. I used to use paint stripper but it's messy, expensive and caustic. 60 grit sandpaper is just as fast and a lot less hassle, Then go to 100 grit and finally 220 grit. Tack rag the dust off and varnish with the marine varnish of your choice sanding/steel wooling between coats. My current favorite varnish is Interlux Compass Clear. Mahogany wants 4 coats. Ash wants 3 coats.
Getting an old, neglected boat back on the water is always worthy undertaking, and these steps above can make it a fairly quick project.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY