I guess an introduction is in order....

Hello all,

I joined up on the forum about a month ago but this is my first post. I've been checking out all the Sunfish pages and links and have learned quite a bit.

My first introduction to sailing was when my father had a Penguin (anyone remember those?) when I was about nine or ten years old. I didn't pay much attention to how he was sailing it, I just enjoyed the ride and remembered to lower my head when he shouted "Hard alee!"

Fast forward to about 25 years ago. I got the bug and took a sailing class. I learned on a Lido 14. I then bought a 16-foot sailboat that was in need of some repair. It was plywood covered with fiberglass and weighed a "freakin' ton" (technical term). I made the repairs and took it out on the water a few times. The problem was that it took two men and a small boy about 30 minutes to rig and de-rig it. My wife didn't like the look of it sitting in our driveway and I ended up giving it to the Sea Scouts.

I needed to get a boat that was easy enough for one person to move around and set up. Enter the Sunfish. I was able to get a great deal ($100) on a pre-1966 Sunfish (It has the dual drain plugs). came with the mast, spars, and the rudder and tiller, but was missing most of the deck hardware. So far I refinished the fins, patched some minor dings in the hull, primed and painted the bottom, and attached a fairlead and halyard cleat. I bought a Harken 240 and was starting to install it yesterday when I noticed that there is a slight rise in the deck where it meets the cockpit. Here's my question: do I need to fabricate a riser to attach the 240 to the deck? There's not enough room to move it back the inch or so that it would take to mount it on the flat area.

I have some "before" photos on Photobucket. None of the area in question, though.

Thanks in advance
 
Headley,

I too used to sail a Penguin and later sailed in Rhodes Bantams, the 14' sloop rigged "stretch" version of the Penguin, see photo.

There should be room to mount the base of your Harken 240 mainsheet cleat in the space between the (raised) lip of the cockpit and the after edge of the daggerboard opening. If not, use stainless steel machine screws with locking nuts for 2 of the 3 holesand the use an aluminum pop rivet for the 3rd. mounting hole. If you want to get a better fit, cut a circle of rubber mat and use it as a gasket between the deck and the base of the cleat. This may allow you to go closer to the edge of the cockpit and allow you to use 3 stainless machine screws and lock nuts.

If you are still missing any remaining hardware, contact me at: [email protected] as I have most vintage hardware in stock at decent prices.

Alan Glos
L1020120.JPG
 
Thanks for the reply, Alan. About the rubber mat, are you talking about the interlocking foam rubber that's supposed to reduce fatigue when you're standing for long periods of time? I might have some scraps lying around. I'm not looking to restore the Sunfish to vintage condition, just to get it on the water. The drain plugs were frozen solid. I pried them out and soaked then in penetrating oil for two day and they were still stuck. I'll probably end up getting the plastic drain plugs but for now I'm using two corks. I forgot to mention that I also got a sail with the boat. It's a recreational sail and it's patched in a couple of spots, but there are no holes. I would rate it as "fair" to "fair/good".

The thing I remember most about the Penguin is having to clamber over the centerboard trunk whenever we were tacking.
 
Hola

Alan is probably talking about a thin rubber gasket. And with careful placement you'll have room for the screws/rivets. Be careful not to drill into the interior of the hull.

swivel cam cleat 3.jpg


See our blog on tis installation: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2013/05/swivel-cam-cleat-installation.html

Our friend's Penguin, circa 1970s. I was thinking of building one after we finish the Penobscot 14, but didn't realize that it had a big sister in the Bantam.....hmmmmmmmm.

Hazelwoods boat 1.jpg
 

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Yes, use thin (1/8 or maybe a little thicker) rubber mat. Most hardware stores will have sheets of the stuff in their plumbing section as the sheets make good patches on leaking pipes.

The Penguin and the Rhodes Bantam were both designed by the late Philip Rhodes. They are arc hull designs as the bottoms are all sections of arcs of different sizes.

Back to your Sunfish. The metal deck drains usually seize especially if used in salt water. The plastic drain assemblies don't seize, but the real answer is to install a plastic drain assembly on the transom just to the right or left of the rudder hardware as low and centered as you can get it. It is probably not class legal for racing, but, hey, you probably aren't going to race this boat and it is easier to lift the bow and lower the transom than turning the boat on its side to drain the interior. If I were king of the Sunfish class, I would allow all Sunfish to have a transom drain plug like the Laser.

Alan Glos
 
I went to the hardware store and bought a 6"x 6"x 1/8" piece of rubber. Worked out great. After cutting it to size I fitted the cleat to the deck and it fits perfectly, though there's not much room to spare. I pulled it off because I was putting down the first coat of primer on the topside. Hopefully, I'll be finished painting by the weekend. The topside will be yellow and the hull is white. I remember Signal Charlie saying that he got the most compliments on his yellow boat. It won't have racing stripes, though. because I'm not planning on doing any racing. :) Thanks again, Alan for the tip.
 

Hmmm. I have the same cam cleat on my "borrowed" Sunfish—but with an all-metal fairlead. I find the metal fairlead puts too much friction into the mainsheet, so I don't use it, except after winding-through the "hook". :confused:

As seen below, but I've since removed the cam cleat, hardware and shackle.

P4260132_zpsea872929.jpg
 
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Hmmm. I have the same cam cleat on my "borrowed" Sunfish—but with an all-metal fairlead. I find the metal fairlead puts too much friction into the mainsheet, so I don't use it, except after winding-through the "hook". :confused:

As seen below, but I've since removed the cam cleat, hardware and shackle.

P4260132_zpsea872929.jpg

You can find a cleat for around $72, or pick up a used one maybe?

http://www.sunfishdirect.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=4&product_id=118

We sure do like ours!

Kent
 

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