Ramp for launching

Suggestions on launching boat from top of bulkhead to water.

  • lumber - 2 by 6 covered with carpet

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • permanent ramp or one that can be set up each time for launch

    Votes: 0 0.0%

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WBF

New Member
I would like to launch my sunfish from the top of my bulkhead down to the water about 5 feet down. There are large boulders protecting my bulkhead from erosion. The water depth is about 3/4 feet. I am thinking of a pair of 2 by 6s covered with carpet plus a winch. I have a dock and could try and set up a lift system from the dock which is also an option. Has anyone had experience here? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks WBF
 
Years ago I built a ramp out of a 4' x 8' piece of pressure treated plywood framed over a 2" x 4" frame to give it stiffness. One end attaches to my dock and the other end is set on pipes that go to the bottom, On the outboard end, there is a trailer roller
and about 14" in from the end is a padded bunk the shape of the hull. There is a smaller bunk for the bow near the dock.
I can simply grab the bow handle and pull the boat out of the water and on to the bunks. I tie it down at the bow and
amidships. A mast-up cover completes the rig so I can leave the sail on under the cover. This rig has worked perfectly for
almost 20 years. I can probably post a photo if you are interested.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
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The 2x6's should at least get a 2x4 on edge on the underside to prevent too much flexing of the 2x6. I would glue and screw the stiffener to the 2x6. It is probably strong enough without, but a simple 2x4 get greatly increase the stiffness. Any flaw in the 2x6 such as a knot will weaken it.
 
Years ago I built a ramp out of a 4' x 8' piece of pressure treated plywood framed over a 2" x 4" frame to give it stiffness. One end attaches to my dock and the other end is set on pipes that go to the bottom, On the outboard end, there is a trailer roller
and about 14" in from the end is a padded bunk the shape of the hull. There is a smaller bunk for the bow near the dock.
I can simply grab the bow handle and pull the boat out of the water and on to the bunks. I tie it down at the bow and
amidships. A mast-up cover completes the rig so I can leave the sail on under the cover. This rig has worked perfectly for
almost 20 years. I can probably post a photo if you are interested.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Thanks Alan - it sounds really interesting. I would love to see a photo of it, if not too much trouble. WBF
 
The 2x6's should at least get a 2x4 on edge on the underside to prevent too much flexing of the 2x6. I would glue and screw the stiffener to the 2x6. It is probably strong enough without, but a simple 2x4 get greatly increase the stiffness. Any flaw in the 2x6 such as a knot will weaken it.
You're right - that could be lots of flexing for those 2 by 6s. Thanks
 
You're right - that could be lots of flexing for those 2 by 6s. Thanks
Here are photos of my Sunfish dock ramp.

Alan Glos
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I would like to launch my sunfish from the top of my bulkhead down to the water about 5 feet down. There are large boulders protecting my bulkhead from erosion. The water depth is about 3/4 feet. I am thinking of a pair of 2 by 6s covered with carpet plus a winch. I have a dock and could try and set up a lift system from the dock which is also an option. Has anyone had experience here? I would appreciate any advice. Thanks WBF

I designed the ramp in picture 1 to work on my old property that had a concrete breakwall about 4' above the lake, with the top of the breakwall level with the lawn. In the photo, the ramp is sitting it on the back of my truck to simulate the breakwall, though the truck is about a foot lower. I'd wheel the ramp over to the wall, then swing the end without wheels out into the lake. With the ramp in the lake, the wheels would be raised a few inches above the lawn. I'd wheel my boat over on my dolly (picture 5), then swing the stern around and set it on the tires. Then I'd pick up the bow and roll the boat over the tires, onto the ramp. The ramp is 16' 2x4 with black sprinkler irrigation pipe screwed to it. The irrigation pipe is very slippery and you must hang onto the boat or it will launch itself. I don't know if this will work with the boulders you mention. Also, especially after reading this forum, I became a bit concerned about the stress that my thin rails put on the hull. Maybe someone else will have an opinion on that. I currently have property about 16' above Lake Ontario and it is all rip-rap with no easy access. I'm constructing a rail system (pix 12,14) that for my situation should be pretty much ideal. Ontario gets pretty rough and getting the boat in and out has always been a challenge. I think the rail system will be ideal as just like a boat trailer, I'll be able to drive the rail car to where the cradle bunks are setting at just the right level in the water.
 

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I hate to see a work-week go by without a post, so I found this suggestion for a lift:

I designed the ramp in picture 1 to work on my old property that had a concrete breakwall about 4' above the lake, with the top of the breakwall level with the lawn. In the photo, the ramp is sitting it on the back of my truck to simulate the breakwall, though the truck is about a foot lower. I'd wheel the ramp over to the wall, then swing the end without wheels out into the lake. With the ramp in the lake, the wheels would be raised a few inches above the lawn. I'd wheel my boat over on my dolly (picture 5), then swing the stern around and set it on the tires. Then I'd pick up the bow and roll the boat over the tires, onto the ramp. The ramp is 16' 2x4 with black sprinkler irrigation pipe screwed to it. The irrigation pipe is very slippery and you must hang onto the boat or it will launch itself. I don't know if this will work with the boulders you mention. Also, especially after reading this forum, I became a bit concerned about the stress that my thin rails put on the hull. Maybe someone else will have an opinion on that. I currently have property about 16' above Lake Ontario and it is all rip-rap with no easy access. I'm constructing a rail system (pix 12,14) that for my situation should be pretty much ideal. Ontario gets pretty rough and getting the boat in and out has always been a challenge. I think the rail system will be ideal as just like a boat trailer, I'll be able to drive the rail car to where the cradle bunks are setting at just the right level in the water.
I'm very impressed with your launching ramps and dollies—ALL of them! :eek:

For those of us with docks and less challenging waters, I stumbled on a "lift", that while it's not designed for a boat, could be easily converted to raise the Sunfish (or canoe/kayak) a foot or three above the water's surface for about $125.

The bottom part would have to be immersed, and the support cables (green arrows) slipped between dock planks or secured to the dock itself. The lift itself (red arrows) would have to be extended to reach slightly beyond the keel. Plywood could be used, but anything that would support a pair of carpeted bunks would work. One could use a single bunk, and secure the "near" side to the lift with an "L-shaped" lift modification. (Or something "J-shaped").

The winch is too exposed and may cause damage to boat or boater :( so I'd lose maybe 9" of lift, and flip it over 180º to the blue arrow upon setting it up. Another advantage to this lift is (if attached to the end of a dock), that this lift can be approached from either direction.

Microsoft Edge 182016 55453 PM.bmp.jpg

This lift isn't the answer for Lake Ontario dwellers, but may be suitable for much more protected bays and coves.

While this "Viking" lift-capacity is 300 pounds, this lift isn't resistant to strong quartering winds, so securing bow and stern can't be overdone. (And you can lift the Sunfish to the dock without having to remember removing the daggerboard—first!) ;)
 
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