Newbie ?s

Finally got my "new to me" Sunfish in the water today. Other than minor issues at launch, things went great.

I am using a make shift trailer til my HF boat trailer arrives. The issues I had to today was that it took a very long time to load unload the boat and most of that was due to the make shift trailer. But I need better straps. Any recommendations on secure straps that won't scratch the deck?

Same with mast/booms/sails. I used towels today and they worked but must be something better.

A tree caught my mast as I was getting underway. I think it put a tiny hole in the very top of the sail. Eventually I will need a new sail, but for now what is a good fix?

Dagger board keep wanting to run up a couple of inches. Expand the brass on the side or just ignore.

Thanks for all the help here and on yahoo I am now back on the water!!

regards,
Fletch

Fletch101e said:

A tree caught my mast as I was getting underway. I think it put a tiny hole in the very top of the sail. Eventually I will need a new sail, but for now what is a good fix?

Dagger board keep wanting to run up a couple of inches. Expand the brass on the side or just ignore.
Fletch

Click to expand...

If it's a "tiny" hole, you can ignore it. If you have sail-repair tape, you can make those little holes "whole" again, but it helps to have the sail-repair tape in the same color. (Repairing one side is enough). My daggerboard does the same thing, but I've found that's all the board you need except when close-hauled.

First, yay and congrats on getting the boat out! As for your ?s

Any recommendations on secure straps that won't scratch the deck?
I use 1 inch wide ratchet straps (Lowes or HD) and position the ratchet so it is away from the deck, take a few turns around trailer frame. One across the middle, run through the swivel cleat if you have one. One across stern. Bow handle tied off to trailer LOOSELY. Only tighten enough to get slack out of straps, you can damage hull if you snug down too tight.
Before ratchets I used old dock line, but it can loosen over long rides.

Same with mast/booms/sails. I used towels today and they worked but must be something better.
We bought curly pool noodles from Academy and stick the mast/spars through those. You can also use a straight pool noodle and wrap it around a few times, tie off with line. Tie spars off by bow, stern and amidships with "hatchet hitches", unidentifiable knots that you need a hatchet to cut loose
Make sure the mast is secure so it doesn't slide fore and aft, we put a line through the mast cap. And if you use a block on the bridle, tie it up so it doesn't rub the deck.



A tree caught my mast as I was getting underway. I think it put a tiny hole in the very top of the sail. Eventually I will need a new sail, but for now what is a good fix?
sail tape repair kit

Dagger board keep wanting to run up a couple of inches. Expand the brass on the side or just ignore.
Run a bungee from the top of the daggerboard forward to the base of the mast or the bow handle, with clips on each end. Adjust length so that there is just a little tension on the bungee. This does a couple of things. 1) It keeps the board attached to the boat if you capsize, you don't want it floating away because you need it to right the boat and 2) The tension on the bungee pulls the top of the board forward in the slot a little and wedges it, so it will stay down or wherever you put it.

As for the board not staying in the "down" position, if the bungee cord rig does not fix it, cut a small strip of thin indoor/outdoor carpeting (say 3/4" X 5") and epoxy glue it in the daggerboard trunk about an inch below deck level.
This will snug the board in the trunk, keep it in place and prevent the dagger board "hum" when the boat is at high speed.
I use both the carpet gasket and the bungee cord rig on my race boat, and it works fine.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

Light and Variable Winds said:

If it's a "tiny" hole, you can ignore it. If you have sail-repair tape, you can make those little holes "whole" again, but it helps to have the sail-repair tape in the same color. (Repairing one side is enough). My daggerboard does the same thing, but I've found that's all the board you need except when close-hauled.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I did not know about the repair tape but I figured there must be something!

signal charlie said:

First, yay and congrats on getting the boat out! As for your ?s

Any recommendations on secure straps that won't scratch the deck?
I use 1 inch wide ratchet straps (Lowes or HD) and position the ratchet so it is away from the deck, take a few turns around trailer frame. One across the middle, run through the swivel cleat if you have one. One across stern. Bow handle tied off to trailer LOOSELY. Only tighten enough to get slack out of straps, you can damage hull if you snug down too tight.
Before ratchets I used old dock line, but it can loosen over long rides.

Same with mast/booms/sails. I used towels today and they worked but must be something better.
We bought curly pool noodles from Academy and stick the mast/spars through those. You can also use a straight pool noodle and wrap it around a few times, tie off with line. Tie spars off by bow, stern and amidships with "hatchet hitches", unidentifiable knots that you need a hatchet to cut loose
Make sure the mast is secure so it doesn't slide fore and aft, we put a line through the mast cap. And if you use a block on the bridle, tie it up so it doesn't rub the deck.

View attachment 15464

A tree caught my mast as I was getting underway. I think it put a tiny hole in the very top of the sail. Eventually I will need a new sail, but for now what is a good fix?
sail tape repair kit

Dagger board keep wanting to run up a couple of inches. Expand the brass on the side or just ignore.
Run a bungee from the top of the daggerboard forward to the base of the mast or the bow handle, with clips on each end. Adjust length so that there is just a little tension on the bungee. This does a couple of things. 1) It keeps the board attached to the boat if you capsize, you don't want it floating away because you need it to right the boat and 2) The tension on the bungee pulls the top of the board forward in the slot a little and wedges it, so it will stay down or wherever you put it.

Click to expand...

The pool noodle is a great idea!!! I have rackets but will need longer ones as what I have now are way too short except at the bow.

Thanks for the ideas...
Fletch

Alan S. Glos said:

As for the board not staying in the "down" position, if the bungee cord rig does not fix it, cut a small strip of thin indoor/outdoor carpeting (say 3/4" X 5") and epoxy glue it in the daggerboard trunk about an inch below deck level.
This will snug the board in the trunk, keep it in place and prevent the dagger board "hum" when the boat is at high speed.
I use both the carpet gasket and the bungee cord rig on my race boat, and it works fine.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY

Click to expand...

Thanks..will do if first way is not enough..

I prefer cam buckle straps over ratchets. They are quicker, and easy to snug up, but hard to over tighten.

sailthefish said:

I prefer cam buckle straps over ratchets. They are quicker, and easy to snug up, but hard to over tighten.

Click to expand...

I know what you are talking about as I used them for motorcycle trailers. But I think they are hard to find nowadays for some reason. I picked up 2 ratcets and the pool noodles so almost ready to go. As long as Fedex doesn't mess up again, I should have the rest of my trailer tomorrow pm. Now just got to figure out how to get girlfriend in the boat as she is nervous and would prefer one of those puffer boats that you sit inside.