Anyone out there have a good example of a mod 2 cuddy insert to hatch conversion? I'm convinced this is the way to go so that I can actually inspect and access the inside of the boat when needed, but there doesn't seem to be a real easy drop in solution. Just wondering what others may have done. If you have a good example, please post your pics and description of what you did. I tried searching but didn't come up with much. Hoping there are some folks lurking around that might have done this but just never had any reason to talk about it.
Post your mod 2 hatch pics
- Thread starter prig0026
- Start date
I don't have a picture, because I have not yet done this to my Mod 2 (yet), but I was recently at the local dealer who had a used Mod 2 with what looked like a good idea for a hatch cover.
The insert was removed and the owner had cut a 1/4" thick plexiglass door to fit over the opening, hinged on the top. The owner had put a thin strip of weather stripping around the hatch cover to seal it. To hold the door shut, he has inserted a small bolt (maybe a #8 or perhaps a #10) on either side of the door, toward the bottom (maybe 1/3 of the way up), facing out, through the recessed area where the "kitchen trash can" used to be. Then he had wingnuts with washers on each bolt holding the cover shut.
To me, the downside is a lack of quick access and it was probably not %100 watertight, but looked like an interesting way of doing it.
The insert was removed and the owner had cut a 1/4" thick plexiglass door to fit over the opening, hinged on the top. The owner had put a thin strip of weather stripping around the hatch cover to seal it. To hold the door shut, he has inserted a small bolt (maybe a #8 or perhaps a #10) on either side of the door, toward the bottom (maybe 1/3 of the way up), facing out, through the recessed area where the "kitchen trash can" used to be. Then he had wingnuts with washers on each bolt holding the cover shut.
To me, the downside is a lack of quick access and it was probably not %100 watertight, but looked like an interesting way of doing it.
woodbark
Member
I like the see-through hatch idea and sealing and latching should not be a problem, the boating industry has numerous ways of sealing hatches from Kayaks to Yachts.
I would really like to set up a nice neat secure cradle system for storing a couple of deep cycle batteries. The idea is to get them as low as possible to get the best Ballast and lowest CG benefits.
I would really like to set up a nice neat secure cradle system for storing a couple of deep cycle batteries. The idea is to get them as low as possible to get the best Ballast and lowest CG benefits.
woodbark
Member
woodbark
Member
I belong to the DIY generation, it has to be home built or my peers will disown me, they expect this from me
. .......So, obviously, my research is mainly to get ideas ......the simpler the better.jcorliss78
New Member
Hatch cover
I traced out the pattern of the pre-fab bow-bow onto a piece of plastic lumber purchased from west marine. I think rounded all the edges. After painting (dark red to match my trim) I screwed in two broass hinges to the bottom edge. When the door is open, it lays parallel to the opening against the hiking straps/bungee. I sealed the opening with Taco hatch weatherproofing, also purchased at west marine. For a latch, I drilled a hole in the underside of the teak trim and mounted a bolt style latch that sets into this, also in brass.
I used two 1x1s laid fore-aft and then 1x4 pine boards screwed to the fore-aft frames for the decking. This gives me a fairly level surface for storage and anchoring storage boxes. I also have the spare life vest, oar and tool box in there.
As far as mounting the brass hinges, I used marine sealant around the brass screws, and used a small pilot hole through the fiberglass to either wide of the hiking strap clamps. There a marine plywood frame around the hatch opening, so the screws are bedded nice and tight.
Hope this helps.
John
I traced out the pattern of the pre-fab bow-bow onto a piece of plastic lumber purchased from west marine. I think rounded all the edges. After painting (dark red to match my trim) I screwed in two broass hinges to the bottom edge. When the door is open, it lays parallel to the opening against the hiking straps/bungee. I sealed the opening with Taco hatch weatherproofing, also purchased at west marine. For a latch, I drilled a hole in the underside of the teak trim and mounted a bolt style latch that sets into this, also in brass.
I used two 1x1s laid fore-aft and then 1x4 pine boards screwed to the fore-aft frames for the decking. This gives me a fairly level surface for storage and anchoring storage boxes. I also have the spare life vest, oar and tool box in there.
As far as mounting the brass hinges, I used marine sealant around the brass screws, and used a small pilot hole through the fiberglass to either wide of the hiking strap clamps. There a marine plywood frame around the hatch opening, so the screws are bedded nice and tight.
Hope this helps.
John
capnron209
New Member
Hatch Cover
I cut a piece of clear plexiglas to cover my Mod 1 hatch. Go to website below to see pics.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HIX6h_6v9WI_lR6wVRNztp-WD6UujO505k_Wi8FcZ8E?feat=directlink
I cut a piece of clear plexiglas to cover my Mod 1 hatch. Go to website below to see pics.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HIX6h_6v9WI_lR6wVRNztp-WD6UujO505k_Wi8FcZ8E?feat=directlink
woodbark
Member
Thanks for sharing capnRon ! .....great pic ! and your uncomplicated application appears to be getting the job done quite effectively while looking quite good. I like it very much.