Should I oil my teak and other questions

Chrisgj

New Member
I have the C14 1987. The splash guards are in good shape, grayed, but
still look ok to the eye. This boat sat outside for 20 years
uncovered. I think they may have been oiled just the first year.

My questions are: should I oil them, or sand and oil them, or do
nothing.

-is the hatch door teak or just plain plywood? It also has sustained
20 years of direct weather contact and has faired well, but isn't
pretty. Must be something special to last this long. No cracks to
fill, no rot. I thinking of sanding, priming and painting it.

-need to wax the hull which hasn't been waxed since the late 80's,
what should I use.

Thanks for your opinions.

Chris
________
LIVE SEX
 
I just got done sanding and oiling my splash rails and door. My boat is hull 108, for probably about the same age. All the wood looks great now.

Kent
 
Glenn:
I used a 150 grit sandpaper. I didn't sand it completely smooth, but enough to clean off the dark on the wood.

The teak oil is Boatlife Teak bright. Now I am really not sure if you can still buy it or not. My dad had it left over when he had his boat 18 years ago and a friend of mine gave it to him. So I have not idea if it is even still made. But the wood looks good again.

We will see how it weathers.

Kent
 
Brightening and Oiling Your Teak

I have a 1987 Mod I, but was fortunate that it spent a lot of time in a garage with its previous owner. Now it is in the garage over winter and under a tarp next to the garage in summer. As far as restoring teak, if the surface it still in pretty decent shape (not too rough or splintered) you might be able to get away without any sanding, or just sanding it lightly to smooth it out. After that, I use West Marine Teak Cleaner on the splash guard, teak cross member over the hatch and hatch cover. The Cleaner (Boat Life is a great product too as is Star Brite) will remove most if not all of the greying (you can always reapply it a second time if your teak is in really bad shape) and leave the teak a dark teak color. If you prefer a lighter or almost honey color, use the West Marine Teak Brightner too before you apply teak oil. THe cleaner and brighter are not necessarily cheap, but they will take years off your boat when you see the "after" results. Apply teak oil two or three times if you need to to really get it to soak in and protect the wood. If you reapply it when it starts to dry out, then you shouldn't have to use teak cleaner and brightner or have to sand it again in the future.
As far as the hull goes, I understand there is a great West Marine product out there that works kind of like rubbing compound called "Finesse It" (or something like that). (Sorry I can't check in the garage as I am deployed in Kuwait right now with the Navy.) Once again not cheap ($25-$28), but does a great job. Once you have the hull looking good , I use Star Bright Marine Polish/Wax with teflon. I use it on my Sea Ray and Jet Ski too with excellent results. Goes on easy and leaves a smooth finish. Hope this helps.
 

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