Never done that on the 144 or 205 base, it may work, but with upside down you may be accused of being a catamaran sailor with all their main cleating in the pull-down fashion to uncleat, so it seems that folks can get used to that action.
hmm... I think the styro blocks in the area between the mast and cockpit at each of the center help support the hull and deck from flexing in that area.
Yep, tiller just needs to be straight and then pinned, or not, per the class rules. The Traveller block will not cross as easily as you'd like with the hard edges of the square tubing when the traveler is at its tight as possible setting for best closshauled performance. Having the tiller as low...
Stainless wear plates - If you need the 1mm thick stainless disk per the class specifications to simply drop in the step. Even if they are built in the class allows one to be dropped in.
We sell them here at Midwest Sailing. We also have the self- adhesive class allowed slick strips that can be...
You could probably copy and paste any image found to a digital file and send the file to any vinyl graphics outfit on-line and have it made your way, color, and size for your application.
I'm pretty sure the Super Shute 90 is no longer in production. Maybe the IYE Manufacturer that still might be producing Super Shute 60 would share the 90 info for someone to make parts? Otherwise the Andersen Super Max is very close in cut-out size and depth, though the mounting holes are not...
Our business has been selling the Laser/ILCA since the second year of production...and we've seen it all. The original vang tang on the mast had the 3/16" hole for attachment. Now with the new vang arrangement all boats have a 1/4" hole in the vang tang. Just drill it out on the old mast...
I suppose you could trim the end of the spreader off to you desired length at the end closest to the mast and machine your holes how you want being careful to leave enough material outside the hole so the hole does not tear out from the pressure.
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