Bridle length for 11'3" mystery boat

Kitecop

Member
what is the rule for bridle length? Just long enough so the tiller clears underneath it when steering?
 
I didnt mean racing rule. Just in general. Not even going on a sunfish. Wuts too short wuts too long?
 
Yes, clear of the tiller would work. You don't want it too long because it keeps a tiller from getting too far away from you, hence the term "bridle."
 
This depends totally on what kind of rig you have. In short, for a sloop rig (main + jib) you generally want the mainsheet lead to be centred (or even to windward of the centreline) and/or as high as possible, while for a una rig (main only) you want the opposite - low and to leeward. This is because of the very different aerodynamic roles the sails play in the different rigs.

Simple bridle for a sloop rig main: tie the block on the centreline and adjust the tails so that the mainsheet blocks almost touch when the sheet is at its very tightest.

Simple bridle for a una rig boat: have the block run freely along the whole length of the bridle, and adjust the length so it's as tight as possible without major frictional issues.
 
This depends totally on what kind of rig you have. In short, for a sloop rig (main + jib) you generally want the mainsheet lead to be centred (or even to windward of the centreline) and/or as high as possible, while for a una rig (main only) you want the opposite - low and to leeward. This is because of the very different aerodynamic roles the sails play in the different rigs.

Simple bridle for a sloop rig main: tie the block on the centreline and adjust the tails so that the mainsheet blocks almost touch when the sheet is at its very tightest.

Simple bridle for a una rig boat: have the block run freely along the whole length of the bridle, and adjust the length so it's as tight as possible without major frictional issues.

Mine is a sloop. So my bridle should be pretty slacked and when its tight it should almost reach the boom when the main is sheeted all the way in? Just enough room for the block between the boom and the bridle?
 
I see now your boat on the other thread! Yes, basically as high and centred as possible; you probably want to discard the linked traveller blocks altogether and tie the sheet straight to the middle of the bridle line.

On the other hand, the jib looks very small and has a fairly wide non-adjustable sheeting angle, so it's possible that the optimum main angle is actually a few degrees to leeward. I would still rig the above-described system, go sailing and see what happens.

In any case, your boat needs a vang. And a tiller extension. And maybe a longer tiller as well.
 
I have already cucked the linked blocks. I was going to replace with a single block tied to the end of the main sheet but you r saying i dont need one there?

It needs a vang where? Ive got a tiller extension in the works via ebay, if that doesnt work ill break out the tig welder and pick up some stainless. Or maybe fabricate one from a carbon golf shaft.
 
The coupled blocks are there because the mainsheet should start at the becket block on the end of the boom, go to the traveler block, back up to the boom end block then forward. This gives you a little more purchase. Similar to a Laser sailboat. The bridle not only allows the mainsheet to slide port and starboard but to also keep the tiller (rudder) from slamming all the way tp port or starboard. However your tiller is short so it may not help you unless you made a longer tiller.
 
I have already cucked the linked blocks. I was going to replace with a single block tied to the end of the main sheet but you r saying i dont need one there?
Yes, you probably won't need the mainsheet lead to move sideways at all. It depends on how the whole rig works, so you have to test it first.

It needs a vang where?
Between the front half of the boom and the mast foot is the traditional place :D You really need to control the boom vertically; a simple block-and-tackle system more or less like the original Laser vang would do the job.

The coupled blocks are there because the mainsheet should start at the becket block on the end of the boom, go to the traveler block, back up to the boom end block then forward. This gives you a little more purchase. Similar to a Laser sailboat.
I noticed the becket block at the end of the boom, too, but this is such a tiny boat with a very small sailplan, so that you most likely won't need that purchase.
 
Yes, you probably won't need the mainsheet lead to move sideways at all. It depends on how the whole rig works, so you have to test it first.

Between the front half of the boom and the mast foot is the traditional place :D You really need to control the boom vertically; a simple block-and-tackle system more or less like the original Laser vang would do the job.

I noticed the becket block at the end of the boom, too, but this is such a tiny boat with a very small sailplan, so that you most likely won't need that purchase.

I wondered how the boom kept from rising... That vang system from the laser seems like overkill though.
 
Anyone got a drawing or pic of what i need to put on there? I just took the boat out for the first time w just the main, hardly any wind just bird farts. But i was able to putts around and go up wind easily. I ended up using the tail end of the halyard to tie the gooseneck down to the base of the mast.
 
90507-cl-laser-pico-vang-classic.jpg
 
I really dont have much room to install a vang. If i did the think the wood boom would still flex enough to minimize the gains from the vang. Not looking to turn this into a racer. I only have about 10" between the base of the mast and the boom and no way to reef to raise the boom
 
You do need a vang. Without one, the boat will be a pain offwind in anything but the lightest conditions. It won't turn your boat into a "racer", just "manageable".

Looking at the pictures, there is plenty of space - a vang is a standard part of boats with much lower booms and more cramped cockpits. And although the boom looks thin, it will never bend nearly enough to significantly offset any vang settings.

Normal attachment points would be about halfway between the gooseneck and the forward mainsheet block on the boom, and as low as practical on the mast. Even a super-simple, Optimist-style 1:1 piece of rope would be infinitely better than nothing.
 
Probably... stock it came with just as simple downhaul to prevent the boom from being pulled up the mast.

You can sail it without the vang. You just can't optimize the sail for all conditions without the vang.
 
You do need a vang. Without one, the boat will be a pain offwind in anything but the lightest conditions. It won't turn your boat into a "racer", just "manageable".

Looking at the pictures, there is plenty of space - a vang is a standard part of boats with much lower booms and more cramped cockpits. And although the boom looks thin, it will never bend nearly enough to significantly offset any vang settings.

Normal attachment points would be about halfway between the gooseneck and the forward mainsheet block on the boom, and as low as practical on the mast. Even a super-simple, Optimist-style 1:1 piece of rope would be infinitely better than nothing.


Could i attach to the wood block the mast sits on?
 
Could i attach to the wood block the mast sits on?
Sure, but why?

The smartest (I think) bottom-end attachment would be to a rope loop around the mast, running through a small eyestrap or fairlead located as low as possible on the frontside of the mast.
 
Sure, but why?

The smartest (I think) bottom-end attachment would be to a rope loop around the mast, running through a small eyestrap or fairlead located as low as possible on the frontside of the mast.


Id have to drill in the the mast to do that. I mounted a block on the wood base and installed a cleat on the boom. Seems to work just fine. The boom cant really even go out close to 90 without hitting the shroud. I put is out as far as i could and the boom movement vertically is really reduced.

I did have anothe problem today tho. Only about 4-5knots of wind and my mast twisted on me. About 30degrees. I just put new, heavier duty screws in the wood block the goes inside the mast to prevent it fron twisting and it looks like one got sheared off.
 
my mast twisted on me. About 30degrees. I just put new, heavier duty screws in the wood block the goes inside the mast to prevent it fron twisting and it looks like one got sheared off.
You mean the mast rotated around its vertical axis? That would be something totally unheard of, although the lack of spreaders sure makes it possible.

Actually, I have a hypothesis, but I first need close-up pictures of the mast step and even more importantly, the hounds (the area of the attachment points of the shrouds).
 

Back
Top